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BUDDING   AND  GRAFTING
Two Important Points.
1st Premium—By budding and grafting
different varieties of fruits are reproduced
nn stocks ot roots than their own. There
are two uses in this work: lst. Bringing into early bearing new and untested
varieties which would otherwise take
years to show their true value. 2d. The
propagation for general use or dissemi-
ration of the older varieties. Propagation
s>f the peach, plum, cherry and dwarf
pear, is done by budding. The apple and
pear are grafted, although they can be
budded. Budding is done in the growing
season. Grafting is done while both tree
nnd scion are in a dormant state.
To insure success in budding two things
must be observed, lst. That the bud to
be used must be well developed at the axil
of the leaf on the shoot from which it is
taken. 2d. The bark must part easily
from the stock on the bud is to be inserted. The budding season runs from June
till September, or as long as the bark separates readily from the stock. Peach
and cherry require early work; other
fruits later, according to the length of
their growing season. Implements used
are a pruning knife for removing obtruding branches, and a budding knife used
for making incisions on the stock and for
removing the bud from the shoot. Strings
for tying are usually had from basswood
hark torn into narrow strips. Scions for
buds must be cut below the cut off leaving
a portion of the stem to help to insert the
Lud easily.
When ready for work take the scion in
the left hand and have knife in right
hand. Place the knife on the shoot, %
inch above the bud to be detached, and
with a drawing cut remove a slip of the
bark having the bud on it to a point %
of an inch below the bud, making the
length of the detached bark 1% inches,
and be sure to cut deep enough under the
bud so as to have a small portion of the
wood just under the bud. This prevents
too rapid drying of bark and hastens a
union of bud and stock. After the bud is
ready for insertion seleet a smooth place
on the stock frsse from branches and make
two incisions or cuts, as deep as the bark,
one cut downward about 1% inches long
and one crosswise at the top of the first
incision, forming a T. The bark on the
perpendicular cut is then carefully lifted
away from the wood with the ivory handle of the budding knife and the bud in-
eerted b<»tweeu and under them. The un-
per end of the slip having the bud is cut
squarely off at the cross incision so as to
allow it to It closely to the stock. A
strip of basswood or any other material
is wound tighUy around the stock the entire length of the incision, beginning at
the bottom and continuing up to the horizontal cut wher? it is securely tied. Remember, smooth cuts must be made and
an exact fit ofthe bulb to the incision must
be had. See that it is securely tied so
s-s to exclude air and water. The work
should be quicklj done to insure success
not more than one minute should be taken
ii. the whole operation.
Grafting is the insertion of a scion of
tne species on the branch or body of a
tree of another species called the stock.
The object is to inctease certain varieties
that caDnot be reproduced from seed. Only closely allied groups ean be thus united.
The pear, apple, quince, thorn, mountain
ash and the locust form one group. The
peach and plum are interchangeable.
Cherry unites only with the cherry family, but even then no union can be had
with the common wild back cherry either
by budding or grafting. Scions for grafting are taken from the growth of tho
previous year and from bearing trees only
No water-sprouts should be used. Scions
should be cut late iu the fall or early winter and kept dormant till used. If wanted
foi whip rafting on roots they shonld be
kept in dry sand in a frost proof cellar.
ing clean, smooth cuts aud in having
its perfect contact the innerbark of both
scion and stock. Cover entire cut sur
faces with wax. Be sure that you have
a bud at the shouMer or point of union
with the stock.
Root grafting: Iu whip grafting use
stocks about % inch in diameter. The
graft is made at the collar, or point where
the stem separates from the root. Cut
the root stock to about 4 inches in length,
removing all fiber roots. Make a smooth
sloping cut an inch long on the collar of
stock.        In the center of this cut make
Experiment Plat State I'air Grounds.
If for out-door grafting bury them below
frost line in some dry sheltered place.
Scions should be of moderate size; too
large ones are sappy and unripe. ,
The implements used are knife, saw,
mallet aud chisel. It is hest to have
two kuives, one or the fine work on the
Stion, the other for rougher work. Grafting wax is made by using one part tallow,
two parts beeswax and four parts resin.
Other proportions are used by some.
Finely powdered brick dust added prevents the wax from running in hot weather. For whip or root grafting waxed
piaper, or thin cloth torn into narrow
strips, i.s used. t.
Cleft grafting is done where trees or
branches are too large for other modes,
or when over 1 inch in diameter. The
scion, about 4 inches in length, is cut in
the shape of a wedge, having a bud at
the point, where the cutting slope begins
nnd forming a shoulder where it rests on
the stock. The outer side of the wedge
should be the thicker.
Where a tree is small, a sloping cut upward, about 1% inches long, can be
made, and then cut stock off horizontally,
about half way up, forming a shoulder
for the scion to rest on. Split the stock
with chisel and mallet. Keep this open
with chisel, and insert scion as far as
it is sloped. Wax securely, and the
work is done.
Where branches are large, cut horizontally off, smooth the cnt surface, split,
and insert two scions, one on each side of
stock.
Other methods are used, but this is the
best.       The secret of success lies in mak-
a slit or tongueby cutting downward. Use
scion 3 or 4 inches long. Cut on the
lower a sloping cut similar to one on the
stock, then make a slit or tongue, cutting upward on scions. Neatly fit both
together by gently pushing the scion
tongue into the slit on the stock, being
careful to keep the inner bark of scion
and stock together on one side of the
graft. Wrap with wax paper and store
away in dry sand till quite small trees or
branches can be whip grafted in the same
manner in the out-door grafting in spring.
.T. H. H.
Choose  Young: Trees.
2d Premium.—The top working of fruit
trees by budding and grafting to secure
certain and good varieties of a number of
kinds of fruit, is a practice of much interest and success. There are a number
of ways of grafting, and there are some
varieties in the budding process. Only
the simpler methods will be noticed here.
EStber budding or grafting, or both, can
be employed in forming new tops to fruit
trees, either large or small, but the best
success is had on small or at most not
very large trees. The trouble with quite
large trees is that decay of parts of the
trunk or large branches is very liable to
result by the cutting away process of the
old top, let one be as careful as he
may.
Both pri>cesses are very simple, and by
but little practice anyone can bud or graft
successfully The way   to  bud  in  the
simplest manner may be described as
follows:        Having    everything      ready.
such as buds secured from the previous
spring'„s growth, a budding knife, and
sssme soft cotton wrapping cord, during
the months of July or not later than August do the work. First make a short
horizontal cut or incision in the stock of
a small tree, or in the branches of a
large one, about three-quarters or an
inch long. From this make a slit downward about oue inch. Cut just through
the bark, and carefully loosen the bark
within the angles for the reception of the
bud. The bud is cut from a well developed twig in such a manner that there
will be a small shield of bark left connected to it. This may be in width about
one-half the circumference of the twig it
is cut from, and near an inch long. Then
place tiie bud so prepared in the incision
made in the stock. Press down the
loosened bark, and tie around and around,
both above and below the bud, so as to
hold everything in position. This completes the process, unless as some recom-
ment a little grafting wax be used to entirely exclude the sun and air from the
wound. This can be done, but is not
at all ncecssary for success.
In grafting the process is quite different, and more tools are required to do tbe
work. Besides the scions, which ought
to be cnt from last year's growth of wood,
there w.'ll be required a keen saw, a
sharp knife, a long narrow wedge, and
some grafting wax. The time for
grafting is in the spring just as the leaves
are putting out, but be sure to cut the
scious (about four inches long) in February or March before. If the tree is
small, say one-half inch, or.not more
than three-quarters in diameter. Cut or
saw off the entire top below the first
branch. If longer trees want new tops
then put grafts in about a half dozen or
more of the small like branches. When
a cut is made to receive the scions, two in
each, split the stock about two inches
and insert the wedge to hold the left open.
Cut the scions a true wedge shape, about
one-half in length, and place them in such
a poition that the bark on both them and
the stock will come in direct contact.
Cover the entire wound with grafting
wax. letting it be quite heavy on the top
of the stock and around and between the
scions. Two scions are placed in each
cleft to cause a thorough holding over of
the wound, but often one season's growth
one of them must be cut away to prevent
a split in after years. G.
Making:  a Family Tree.
3d Premium.—While it is generally understood that most fruit trees are budded
or grafted, yet the process of doing this
aud the reasons for it are not universally
understood. It is supposed by many
that an apple seed will yield fruit "after
its kind," but this is not the case. When
a seed is planted there is no assurance
tliat the fruit resulting from it will in
any measure resemble the parent apple.
It is much more likely to be small and inferior, with no resemblane whatever. To
be sure of getting the variety that is desired grafting or budding is resorted to.
Thtre are several ways of grafting, or
joining the stock and scion as they are
called, but the object is to substitute for
the worthless seedling a cutting from a
good variety which it is desired to grow.
The nurseryman plants the seeds in tho
spring, and after one year's growth the
shoots ire taken up and stored in the
cellar where they will keep fresh. The
Continued on page 9.