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^OURNM-: :$r or Garden ..- VOL. LVIII. INDIANAPOLIS, JULY 11, 1903. NO. 28 XxperUuce ^jepartmetit HOW TO MAKE A GOOD f ARM GATE. Set the Mala Pott ia Cement. lst Premium.—A good solid farm gate is not only a pleasure to the farmer, but is a good investment, compared with the loose, rickety, dragging old gate sometimes found. What tries the patience of the farmer, his son, or hand, more than to drive up to that old gate some frosty morning, where it has lieen dragged round on the ground until it has worn a channel in the ground sonic two or three Inches deep, and the rain and the snow have filled it up, and old Boreas has sealed it have your slats iu Ilu* two iniirtiseal posts. cut a Couple aaf slats tell inches longer thnn yuur end posts nnd place them on aaih side of the slats in the center of the gate, letting them extend above the gate. Bolt them through each other slat, and above the uppi*r slat till in with a piece of slat to make the top solid. Now put on yaaur braces, double. Let them extend from the bottom of each post, and meet at the top of the center slats. Cut a slight notch at top and bottom, and cut to lit well, and bolt them well, nnd you will have a gate that the thoughtless boy cannot swag by an occasional ride. Dress and paint the material Ix.'fore it is put together. and if you are not ready to hang it to you can am-lioi- your gale .alien open, anal n.at leave it to swing at the mor.-.v aaf tli«- winds. This fate should last yi.u '20 years with proper care. Look after the pins and bolts. I_*et it shut insiile of tin- posts, against a strip wa*ll spikoal on, an*l tin* wind iaiin.it wriggle it to ■ wreck. If your horses are Inclined to push against the gate, put an extra latch pin near tin* top. I. N. C. Marion Co. Ell til Piecei Together Tightly I'd Premium.—The maintenance of gates upon the farm is an important ita*in. an*] t*> make and bang a good, durable and reliable gate requires soma' knowledge as abore described, s.-ven slats to the ^.ila*. naila*.! the slats to the piece, nailed a piece ovar the slats to this end piasce, nailed cross piece at middle of gate, and (wo cross pieces at far end of slats, (one 00 either siale), using six-penny nails. We put a brace from bottom of gate at end piiK-<- taa top of gate at middle cross piece, .■im! from bottom of middle cross pi*?ce I.a the taap of far ciiai of slats, using four nails at each crossing of slats. All the cross pieces and laraea's were same size as slates, anal the nails were well clinch.il. ThoSo (rates are very light, but are strong, durable ami not dragging the ground and llius tearing them to pieces. The end pieces extend about three Inchea above the Wheat harvest at Moose Jaw, Assiniboia, Canada. over, and the gate is fast? You must either go to the barn for an ax to get it loose, or tear down the (fence to get around it. No wonder the boy is inclined to leave the farm. But this subject does not call for prose or poetry on the rickety old gate, but how to make and hang a good gate. The first thing is to get your material, and season it well. I prefer good white oak, but if that is not available take some other hard timber. The slats should be clear of knots, so that they are not easily broken, for they will often be tried by stock and otherwise. The rear post, or the post that the hinges are attached to, should be three inches square, and the front post two by three, for I am going to have you mortise the slats into the posts. The slats should be one by three inches. Now, do not make your gate too high, for a gate that is above the fence, or mnch above, is an unsightly thing, and stock will not jump a gate more readily than a fence. To be minute: Cut the first mortise one inch from the bottom and make the first space between slats two and one-half inches; the second three inches; third, five; fourth, seven; fifth, ten; sixth, twelve inches. This gives you six slats, with a gate fifty-eight inches high. The width of the gate depends on what you use it for. To the woodland where only wood is to be hauled and stock tnrned through, ten feet is wide enough; but where hay and grain in the straw is to be hauled, nnd machinery moved through, I prefer twelve feet. Now a twelve-foot gate must be well braced, or it will be limber and wabbly, so, after yon the post, hang it up on some pins, where it will keep straight. Next comes the posts, to hang to and shut to. They should be of the most lasting timber available, mulberry, black locust, catalpa, cedar, white oak. It used to be a custom to get out posts from 14 to 15 inches square. That is a waste of timber. A large stick of timber does not last longer than a smaller one. Take a stick six or eight inches square. Set the post you hang to four and a half or five feet in the ground, in a hole three feet square, and fill in around it with concrete or broke stone or gravel and cement, well tamped and you will have a post that will be able to resist a good deal of temptation in the way of side pressure and will preserve the wood better than dirt. The post you shut to should be three feet in the ground. Plumb the post you hang to, and put down a two by ten joist on the groimal between the posts, fitting close against the post at each end, which will make a good stay, and, with a few loads of gravel to level up, you can hang your gate high enough to clear the ground and still keep the pigs out. Now if you will give those posts a good coat of crude coal oil, with some cheap paint, every few years, they will last much longer. Well, now we are ready to hang the gate. Get tho size of the post in the gate and the one you hang to, through diagonally, and have yonr hinges made of proper length, hook and eye, with nuts, so you can take up any droop in the gate by turning a lap. Make any kind of a latch that suits your convenience. Place a post back where of the principles Involved. Take a good, sound piece of oak timber, 3x4 inches or 21/_x.'?, for the end of the gate next the hanging post. Lay the oak piece down flatwise, ami mark the places where you want the slats put on. Saw notches on the top siale of this fence, as it lies at on the scaffold where you work, making the notches wider at the si.la* of the piece next the hanging post, but make the bottom side of the notch on the square, putting all the slope on the top side of the slat, say one-half slope. Or, as the carpenter terms it, "dove tail" the slat into the end piece. Cut into the slat from the bottom si.le, and on tho square, *4 to ■(*_ inches, to form a stiff support for the slat. Make the slat to fit iuto the notch very tightly. Make the notch just deep enough to receive the slat. Pound them all into the notches and nail well. I will just say that, for the ordinary farmer who is not accustomed to making close joints by measurements, the easy way to make these slats fit is to cut the dove tail on the slat, lay the slats on the end piece just where you want them, and mark for each slat just as you have cut the slat. Number each slat, take them all off of the piece, and saw the notches according to the marks, but be careful to saw just insiile the mark, or your pieces will not be tight. The finishing of the gate is a matter of taste, for if this foundation has been properly laid, you may have a good gate; if not, it may be otherwise. This work on the farm should be done on rainy days. On one rainy day the farm hand and myself made five gates. We used 2x3 oak for end piece, %x3 red elm for slats, put the slats into end piece top slat, and the center cross piece about 8 or 10 inches and if the horses are inclined to look over the gate occasionally just stretch a barbed wire real tight to the top of these pieces. The manner of setting the hanging post depends upon its size. We have used oak. We have no timber, but buy the tops of trees fgrom the timber men for a very small amount, and hew our hanging posts from the forks and rough pieces of this timber. They last well. Some of them are very large and require consider- alala* time to make them ready to set, and it is quite a job to put therji four feet or more into the ground, which we believe is necessary, and then they are well tamped. Small posts should be set even deeped than this, with an anchor piece near the bottom and top of the hole. We should never slight the setting of a hanging gate post or the end post to a wire fence. Use any gootl hinge, but we prefer bolting the hinges to the gate, and using a wood screw in the posts. Be sure the bit for making the hole is not too large. Hancock *Co. V. P. Make the Cita Swing Outward ud I'pwtrd. 3d Premium.—To make a good, substantial farm gate, I take good oak lumber, 1x3, 12 feet long. Bight of them will make a gate four feet high, not counting the upright pieces, which will be two at each end and one in the center. Then tnke a piece one inch thick and three inches wide and run diagonally across the gate from one corner of the gate to the other. I use No. 10 nails, and clinch Continued on page 9, Column 4.
Object Description
Title | Indiana farmer, 1903, v. 58, no. 28 (July 11) |
Purdue Identification Number | INFA5828 |
Date of Original | 1903 |
Subjects (LCSH) |
Agriculture Farm management Horticulture Agricultural machinery |
Subjects (NALT) |
agriculture farm management horticulture agricultural machinery and equipment |
Genre | Periodical |
Call Number of Original | 630.5 In2 |
Location of Original | Hicks Repository |
Coverage | United States - Indiana |
Type | text |
Format | JP2 |
Language | eng |
Collection Title | Indiana Farmer |
Rights Statement | Content in the Indiana Farmer Collection is in the public domain (published before 1923) or lacks a known copyright holder. Digital images in the collection may be used for educational, non-commercial, or not-for-profit purposes. |
Repository | Purdue University Libraries |
Date Digitized | 2011-03-21 |
Digitization Information | Original scanned at 300 ppi on a Bookeye 3 scanner using internal software. Display images generated in CONTENTdm as JP2000s; file format for archival copy is uncompressed TIF format. |
Description
Title | Page 1 |
Subjects (LCSH) |
Agriculture Farm management Horticulture Agricultural machinery |
Subjects (NALT) |
agriculture farm management horticulture agricultural machinery and equipment |
Genre | Periodical |
Call Number of Original | 630.5 In2 |
Location of Original | Hicks Repository |
Coverage | Indiana |
Type | text |
Format | JP2 |
Language | eng |
Collection Title | Indiana Farmer |
Rights Statement | Content in the Indiana Farmer Collection is in the public domain (published before 1923) or lacks a known copyright holder. Digital images in the collection may be used for educational, non-commercial, or non-for-profit purposes. |
Repository | Purdue University Libraries |
Digitization Information | Orignal scanned at 300 ppi on a Bookeye 3 scanner using internal software. Display images generated in CONTENTdm as JP2000s; file format for archival copy is uncompressed TIF format. |
Transcript | ^OURNM-: :$r or Garden ..- VOL. LVIII. INDIANAPOLIS, JULY 11, 1903. NO. 28 XxperUuce ^jepartmetit HOW TO MAKE A GOOD f ARM GATE. Set the Mala Pott ia Cement. lst Premium.—A good solid farm gate is not only a pleasure to the farmer, but is a good investment, compared with the loose, rickety, dragging old gate sometimes found. What tries the patience of the farmer, his son, or hand, more than to drive up to that old gate some frosty morning, where it has lieen dragged round on the ground until it has worn a channel in the ground sonic two or three Inches deep, and the rain and the snow have filled it up, and old Boreas has sealed it have your slats iu Ilu* two iniirtiseal posts. cut a Couple aaf slats tell inches longer thnn yuur end posts nnd place them on aaih side of the slats in the center of the gate, letting them extend above the gate. Bolt them through each other slat, and above the uppi*r slat till in with a piece of slat to make the top solid. Now put on yaaur braces, double. Let them extend from the bottom of each post, and meet at the top of the center slats. Cut a slight notch at top and bottom, and cut to lit well, and bolt them well, nnd you will have a gate that the thoughtless boy cannot swag by an occasional ride. Dress and paint the material Ix.'fore it is put together. and if you are not ready to hang it to you can am-lioi- your gale .alien open, anal n.at leave it to swing at the mor.-.v aaf tli«- winds. This fate should last yi.u '20 years with proper care. Look after the pins and bolts. I_*et it shut insiile of tin- posts, against a strip wa*ll spikoal on, an*l tin* wind iaiin.it wriggle it to ■ wreck. If your horses are Inclined to push against the gate, put an extra latch pin near tin* top. I. N. C. Marion Co. Ell til Piecei Together Tightly I'd Premium.—The maintenance of gates upon the farm is an important ita*in. an*] t*> make and bang a good, durable and reliable gate requires soma' knowledge as abore described, s.-ven slats to the ^.ila*. naila*.! the slats to the piece, nailed a piece ovar the slats to this end piasce, nailed cross piece at middle of gate, and (wo cross pieces at far end of slats, (one 00 either siale), using six-penny nails. We put a brace from bottom of gate at end piiK-<- taa top of gate at middle cross piece, .■im! from bottom of middle cross pi*?ce I.a the taap of far ciiai of slats, using four nails at each crossing of slats. All the cross pieces and laraea's were same size as slates, anal the nails were well clinch.il. ThoSo (rates are very light, but are strong, durable ami not dragging the ground and llius tearing them to pieces. The end pieces extend about three Inchea above the Wheat harvest at Moose Jaw, Assiniboia, Canada. over, and the gate is fast? You must either go to the barn for an ax to get it loose, or tear down the (fence to get around it. No wonder the boy is inclined to leave the farm. But this subject does not call for prose or poetry on the rickety old gate, but how to make and hang a good gate. The first thing is to get your material, and season it well. I prefer good white oak, but if that is not available take some other hard timber. The slats should be clear of knots, so that they are not easily broken, for they will often be tried by stock and otherwise. The rear post, or the post that the hinges are attached to, should be three inches square, and the front post two by three, for I am going to have you mortise the slats into the posts. The slats should be one by three inches. Now, do not make your gate too high, for a gate that is above the fence, or mnch above, is an unsightly thing, and stock will not jump a gate more readily than a fence. To be minute: Cut the first mortise one inch from the bottom and make the first space between slats two and one-half inches; the second three inches; third, five; fourth, seven; fifth, ten; sixth, twelve inches. This gives you six slats, with a gate fifty-eight inches high. The width of the gate depends on what you use it for. To the woodland where only wood is to be hauled and stock tnrned through, ten feet is wide enough; but where hay and grain in the straw is to be hauled, nnd machinery moved through, I prefer twelve feet. Now a twelve-foot gate must be well braced, or it will be limber and wabbly, so, after yon the post, hang it up on some pins, where it will keep straight. Next comes the posts, to hang to and shut to. They should be of the most lasting timber available, mulberry, black locust, catalpa, cedar, white oak. It used to be a custom to get out posts from 14 to 15 inches square. That is a waste of timber. A large stick of timber does not last longer than a smaller one. Take a stick six or eight inches square. Set the post you hang to four and a half or five feet in the ground, in a hole three feet square, and fill in around it with concrete or broke stone or gravel and cement, well tamped and you will have a post that will be able to resist a good deal of temptation in the way of side pressure and will preserve the wood better than dirt. The post you shut to should be three feet in the ground. Plumb the post you hang to, and put down a two by ten joist on the groimal between the posts, fitting close against the post at each end, which will make a good stay, and, with a few loads of gravel to level up, you can hang your gate high enough to clear the ground and still keep the pigs out. Now if you will give those posts a good coat of crude coal oil, with some cheap paint, every few years, they will last much longer. Well, now we are ready to hang the gate. Get tho size of the post in the gate and the one you hang to, through diagonally, and have yonr hinges made of proper length, hook and eye, with nuts, so you can take up any droop in the gate by turning a lap. Make any kind of a latch that suits your convenience. Place a post back where of the principles Involved. Take a good, sound piece of oak timber, 3x4 inches or 21/_x.'?, for the end of the gate next the hanging post. Lay the oak piece down flatwise, ami mark the places where you want the slats put on. Saw notches on the top siale of this fence, as it lies at on the scaffold where you work, making the notches wider at the si.la* of the piece next the hanging post, but make the bottom side of the notch on the square, putting all the slope on the top side of the slat, say one-half slope. Or, as the carpenter terms it, "dove tail" the slat into the end piece. Cut into the slat from the bottom si.le, and on tho square, *4 to ■(*_ inches, to form a stiff support for the slat. Make the slat to fit iuto the notch very tightly. Make the notch just deep enough to receive the slat. Pound them all into the notches and nail well. I will just say that, for the ordinary farmer who is not accustomed to making close joints by measurements, the easy way to make these slats fit is to cut the dove tail on the slat, lay the slats on the end piece just where you want them, and mark for each slat just as you have cut the slat. Number each slat, take them all off of the piece, and saw the notches according to the marks, but be careful to saw just insiile the mark, or your pieces will not be tight. The finishing of the gate is a matter of taste, for if this foundation has been properly laid, you may have a good gate; if not, it may be otherwise. This work on the farm should be done on rainy days. On one rainy day the farm hand and myself made five gates. We used 2x3 oak for end piece, %x3 red elm for slats, put the slats into end piece top slat, and the center cross piece about 8 or 10 inches and if the horses are inclined to look over the gate occasionally just stretch a barbed wire real tight to the top of these pieces. The manner of setting the hanging post depends upon its size. We have used oak. We have no timber, but buy the tops of trees fgrom the timber men for a very small amount, and hew our hanging posts from the forks and rough pieces of this timber. They last well. Some of them are very large and require consider- alala* time to make them ready to set, and it is quite a job to put therji four feet or more into the ground, which we believe is necessary, and then they are well tamped. Small posts should be set even deeped than this, with an anchor piece near the bottom and top of the hole. We should never slight the setting of a hanging gate post or the end post to a wire fence. Use any gootl hinge, but we prefer bolting the hinges to the gate, and using a wood screw in the posts. Be sure the bit for making the hole is not too large. Hancock *Co. V. P. Make the Cita Swing Outward ud I'pwtrd. 3d Premium.—To make a good, substantial farm gate, I take good oak lumber, 1x3, 12 feet long. Bight of them will make a gate four feet high, not counting the upright pieces, which will be two at each end and one in the center. Then tnke a piece one inch thick and three inches wide and run diagonally across the gate from one corner of the gate to the other. I use No. 10 nails, and clinch Continued on page 9, Column 4. |
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