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VOL. XXXI. INDIANAPOLIS, IND., SEPT. 19, 1896. NO. 38 EXPERIENCE DEPARTMENT Tile Drainage—Practical Methods of Ditching-Size of Tile, Etc. lst Premium.—Tile drainage is so much of a science and art that it may be considered a distinct branch of engineering. The science can to some extent be explained on paper, but the art can be learned only by field observation and experience. The natural condition and position of ground is so diversified that a rule that will fit all cases cannot be given. A most skillful engineer would not venture lo say whether or not it would pay or how to drain a piece of ground for agricultural purposes without making a survey of the gronnd himself. The best thing one inexperienced can do before venturing at tile drainage is to search the country for a tract similar to the one he proposes to drain that is already drained and inquire after and examine the system and success of the drainage. Though it take a days journey or a few dollars car fare, better do it. It is to the ditcher what a scientific tour ls to the scientist. Or else engage the service of one experienced. This much as to the expediency of tile drainage. When it is decided to drain a piece of ground lay off the course by driving stakes in the ground, making the course, as near straight a's practical. It by digging ttaronph ar_ embankment a : foot or two higher than tEe'EaluFSl'Watfr co'KFse ftr several rods, a meander of a rod can be avoided better do the extra digging. There are several styles of ditching machines made but the most satisfactory implements for general use are the spade, shovel and ditch scoop for cleaning and leveling the bottom. A common break plow can be used to cut a furrow for a beginning and is of great advantage in sod. The depth of drains depends much on the nature of the ground. For general purposes three feet is a good depth. Porous ground can be ditched deeper to advantage, compact shallower. The greatest benefit from tile drainage are obtained from ground having very little or no natural fall or outlet. And requires the greatest skill to drain. Any one can get a fair idea of where would be a good location for main and lateral drains by surveying the ground during a freshet. Generally the natural watercourse is the best route for the main, yet where there is a great bulk of water some other course is sometimes economical, avoiding me- anderings and thus gaining greater fall which enormously increases the capacity of tile and is a safe guard against their obstruction by sediment. Never try to make water run up hill even for an inch. The best way to level a ditch is to watch the flow of a streamlet on the bottom and dress the bottom even with a ditch scoop. Or an even grade can be made by using a spirit level and boning rods, but it should be known that a perfectly true spirit level is a rare instrument and should be accurately tested before using in the field. J. K. Decatur Co. \ 2nd Premium. As to the best methods of tile drainage. I would require my drains as freeVrom cracks as possible be sure to havexjile large enough. Too many make a larre mistake in putting in too small sized tiik In no case would I put in less than fou\ inch tile, be sure the bottom of your dralnis even and give it as mnch fall as you can, any unevenness in your tile will fill up\he tile just that much, don't lay any tifv until you get your ditch dug. Diggings few rods and laying the tile then digginV a few rods more and so on until your bitch is dug is liable to cause you to lose ytar fall and make low places in your ditch, and your ditch won't work good. Be su\o also to get your tile below freezing, d^n't put] /,'. in culls because you get them cheap,they are dear in the long rnn. Don't let trees grow near your tile drains, especially elm or willowf I have seen tile completely choked up with elm roots. "When your ditch is completed fix a few wires across the mouth of your tile so rabbits, ground hogs, skunks, can't get in; be sure also to keep the mouth of your ditch clear so the water will not back up in your tile. Tile ditching I think is ono of the most expensive and needful things on many of our farms, and I know of nothing done on farms that should be done right or not at all. But how often do we see it done that way^I am sorry to say lt, but I do not believe one-half of the tile that I know of is just in right and the result Is money thrown away. W. II. P. Carroll Co. 3d Premium.—I understand by practical drainage you desire a discussion of plans for accomplishing not only the most successful results but also the cheapest method. I suppose there are two results which everyone hopes to accomplish when he drains a field with tile. One Is to relieve his land of surplus water the other to aerate and lighten the soil. Perhaps we do not realize the extreme porosity of the soil. We all remember from our school days that dirt proper, js simply fragments of rock which have been separated from the .parent stone, by the action of the elements working through unnumbered cycles of years, I4_ow*v»-*--**"*eve*i_B---tfy^ap^ large a portion was stone and how small a part was vegetable matter until recently, when I had the privilege, through the courtesy of Dr. Hervey, of Fortville, of examining a fragment of earth in a microscope which increased Its apparent size 1,700 diameters. I then found that the finest dust had the appearance of crystals with only an occasional particle of vegetable matter. In places where the dust was more than one thickness It looked like a pile of stones of irregular shape as stated above which held each other apart leaving each other proportionally large air spaces. If there is no outlet for the water all these spaces are full of it unless relieved by evaporation. To what extent the soil would be deprived of It by a tile, I am unable to say, but experience seems to show that it does not rob the plants. The tile instead seems to act as a governor for by removing the surplus water it Invites the air to take its place, thereby preserving a happy mean conducive to plant growth. It has also been noticed where tile drains are deep that on a day when the warm air is heavy with moisture as will frequently happen even in a severe drouth,in passing up the drains it will lose its moisture by condensation to such an extent as to cause the drains to run, thereby filling the soil contiguous to the tile and throughout its entire length with moisture which can then be appropriated by capillary attraction. From which premises I draw the following .conclusions: 1. Drain thoroughly, that ls, closely. 2. Use large tile not for water only but for air. 3. Drain deep. As to methods of digging, I have sometimes taken out the depth of a dead furrow, with a plow but the remainder with old- fashioned elbow grease and a spade. Rob Roy. bbvikw. Perhaps I may be allowed the honor of saying that my father' introduced the first wooden ditch and the first tile ditch in this community. The spotted clay and black soil of central Indiana, back from water courses, is all benefited by tiling. Our sandy river land is helped only in places and often dries ont Into a bed of gravel which is too near the surface. Our wettest ground is generally the blackest soil and being very coarse and | porous dries quicker when ditched than the clay land. i We can work well ditched "wet land" sooner after rain than our so-called high dry clay soil even if it ls also well ditched. There is lots of nonsense about employing surveyors to lay out ditches. And a whole lot of expense may often be piled np on a job. I like for tile to be 40 inches deep in our black soil an 30 inches in the clay soil. I have used a riding plow throwing a furrow right and left. Then a deep furrow In the middle. One tile spade from the bottom will put tile deep enough on clay land. A handy man with a little running water will make a good bottom with a drawing scoop. And we lay tile with a stick with a piece nailed on It like a carpenter's square. By standing on the bank both making bottom and laying tiio we can do better work. The secret of tile Is that lt promptly lowers the water table to 30 or 40 Inches, this makes a sponge reservoir of the soil which takes up a good rain without washing and also absorbs it below the surface and lt is not stagnant about plant roots. • 1^visited Chamberlain's farm in northern Ohio,Vnd"h6—trt-s-a-inch.,glazed collar tile, .about .two. rods apart- aii 3<\ inches deep oyer his clay land. Their soil Is unlike'ours. ".HlspltfW .was break.-; ing'for wheit and as I-pre'ssedi back with my'flbot a partly^ turned sod instead of crumbling over my foot it bent and checked in many cracks and laid back tough. He showed me his large orchard, one- half was greener and had longer new twigs. That half had no advantage more than a 2-inch tile 30 inches deep between every two rows of trees. . I agree that nothing less than 4-inch should be used ln valleys. ]!ut for knolls and fiat land, fine high land, sad enough to need a lino every two rods, I would use 2 inch tile. It serves every purpose and Is much cheaper and more easily hauled and handled. I once stood a 4-inch tile on end in cement on a piece of glass and filled It with water. It soon dampened through but the capillary attraction of the particles of tile did not allow the water to drip except on the lower one inch. I placed cement on the top of this tile and stood a second tile on it and filled with water and tho-moisture then stood in minute drops all over the lower tile and an inch of the bottom of the upper tile. So it took a column of water 11 Inches high to press throngh a cherry red tile. And when 30 inches of water is above a line it will [go in through cracks and pores both. I had a long line of tile in my bottom field with little fall and the branch filled above the mouth and run it full ot sand for more than a rod. I expected to have it to take up. But after a big rain I noticed it was clean and had cut quite a notch in tho bank of the brook on the opposite side. One mustn't never dare go in debt to build a fine house or buy a nice rig or team. But he may be fairly reckless in going in debt for ditchiug land that needs it. It will not only pay interest but often liquidate the entire debt in one crop. If any man knows of a farmer who was "broke" by putting money in tile I wish you would send his address. I can not agree with Kob Hoy that damp air condenses water enough in a deep tile to start a (low. We often witness low streams renew flowing when the air becomes lighter. Not much air passes into the mouth ot a tile. If drawn through in a strong stream much moisture would condense. We were surprised to receive only three letters on such an Important topic. Heretofore we have received so much copy. No. 29, Sept. 20.—Describe a convenient arrangement for keeping milk and butter for family use. No. 30, Oct. 3d. How do you manage poultry In fall and'winter—variety preferred for eggs and for market? _. Topic No. 31, Oct. 10th.—What is your money crop? How do you plan your farm management so as to make money? Topic No 32.—Oct 17th—Tell our readers what the saloon does for you and your neighbors. Ask your county clerk what additional taxes you pay on account ot the crime and poverty resulting from the nuisance. Please send copy early. If our friends will writo as soon as you can on any of these topics, your copy will be filed away and be ready whou the topic is published. E. H. COI-LINS. Importance of Hye As a Crop. Perhaps no other grain possesses moro desirable qualities of usefulness for the farmer than the sometimes abused rye. While It is not a difficult matter to find men who would not have a grain of rye on thou,- ta___,-i.._. - it to capable, if rightly handlCt?. ot serving es good a purpose as .Stfy^prop. wblch;»i»^^e*-ea»ialse-- _ Kye should he *,;)wn. _-lr"~-i•-, att*r harvest as-possible. It __>-jo* parneaiany partial to any one kjnd of soil although light, rather than heavy land is best for it. It makes good and rapid growth and can be pastured quite late in the fall, in fact, until winter sets in. As soon as the snow is off the ground in spring it can be again pastured. It grows rapidly and will usually keep a herd of stock, unless too many hoad per acre are rapidly turned into it. It is an ideal place in which to keep hogs of any age, the rye field. Nothing affords such abundance of pasture iu the eastern or middle States. It quickly recovers after close cropping and requires but little moisture to keep it growing. As it heads out considerably earlier than other grain, it may be cut for hay If desired and the land then put into potatoes, beans or corn. Or the pasturing may be continued while the grain ripens. Hogs will run in a rye field all summer, requiring no other food and be fat enough to kill in the fall, although a few weeks feeding on corn is thought desirable. I have known a drove of 20 hogs being kept all summer in an orchard sowed to rye with no other food, and sold to the butcher . without a day's extra feed. The rye thus treated self seeds and comes up again green and thick as a mat in the fall. By some rye is allowed to mature its seed and the crop threshed, but the writer prefers to cut while green and make Into hay, or turn under for manure rather than to have the rye springing up in other crops. So the seed is bought from year to year. To those who have never tried it I would say, sow a field of ryo this year. Sow it early and do not be afraid to pasture it late. It will come on nicely in the spring, affording pasturage long before the grass is big enough to turn into.. Keep it fed down as long as possible,' but when it begins to joint keep out the stook if you want it for hay or to perfect the grain for threshing. In cutting for hay cut before it begins to turn yellow at the roots, so that it will be green and nice when cured. If it can be used for hogs let them remain in it all summer, and you will find it the easiest way of fattening them you ever tried. Nothing makes spring pigs grow equal to it, although a little ground feed may be fed to advantage at any time, and milk the same.—N. Y. Farmer. 3 A pocket of marsh gas was struck at Wanatah, at a depth of 410 feet.
Object Description
Title | Indiana farmer, 1896, v. 31, no. 38 (Sept. 19) |
Purdue Identification Number | INFA3138 |
Date of Original | 1896 |
Subjects (LCSH) |
Agriculture Farm management Horticulture Agricultural machinery |
Subjects (NALT) |
agriculture farm management horticulture agricultural machinery and equipment |
Genre | Periodical |
Call Number of Original | 630.5 In2 |
Location of Original | Hicks Repository |
Coverage | United States - Indiana |
Type | text |
Format | JP2 |
Language | eng |
Collection Title | Indiana Farmer |
Rights Statement | Content in the Indiana Farmer Collection is in the public domain (published before 1923) or lacks a known copyright holder. Digital images in the collection may be used for educational, non-commercial, or not-for-profit purposes. |
Repository | Purdue University Libraries |
Date Digitized | 2011-03-03 |
Digitization Information | Original scanned at 300 ppi on a Bookeye 3 scanner using internal software. Display images generated in CONTENTdm as JP2000s; file format for archival copy is uncompressed TIF format. |
Description
Title | Page 1 |
Subjects (LCSH) |
Agriculture Farm management Horticulture Agricultural machinery |
Subjects (NALT) |
agriculture farm management horticulture agricultural machinery and equipment |
Genre | Periodical |
Call Number of Original | 630.5 In2 |
Location of Original | Hicks Repository |
Coverage | Indiana |
Type | text |
Format | JP2 |
Language | eng |
Collection Title | Indiana Farmer |
Rights Statement | Content in the Indiana Farmer Collection is in the public domain (published before 1923) or lacks a known copyright holder. Digital images in the collection may be used for educational, non-commercial, or non-for-profit purposes. |
Repository | Purdue University Libraries |
Digitization Information | Orignal scanned at 300 ppi on a Bookeye 3 scanner using internal software. Display images generated in CONTENTdm as JP2000s; file format for archival copy is uncompressed TIF format. |
Transcript | VOL. XXXI. INDIANAPOLIS, IND., SEPT. 19, 1896. NO. 38 EXPERIENCE DEPARTMENT Tile Drainage—Practical Methods of Ditching-Size of Tile, Etc. lst Premium.—Tile drainage is so much of a science and art that it may be considered a distinct branch of engineering. The science can to some extent be explained on paper, but the art can be learned only by field observation and experience. The natural condition and position of ground is so diversified that a rule that will fit all cases cannot be given. A most skillful engineer would not venture lo say whether or not it would pay or how to drain a piece of ground for agricultural purposes without making a survey of the gronnd himself. The best thing one inexperienced can do before venturing at tile drainage is to search the country for a tract similar to the one he proposes to drain that is already drained and inquire after and examine the system and success of the drainage. Though it take a days journey or a few dollars car fare, better do it. It is to the ditcher what a scientific tour ls to the scientist. Or else engage the service of one experienced. This much as to the expediency of tile drainage. When it is decided to drain a piece of ground lay off the course by driving stakes in the ground, making the course, as near straight a's practical. It by digging ttaronph ar_ embankment a : foot or two higher than tEe'EaluFSl'Watfr co'KFse ftr several rods, a meander of a rod can be avoided better do the extra digging. There are several styles of ditching machines made but the most satisfactory implements for general use are the spade, shovel and ditch scoop for cleaning and leveling the bottom. A common break plow can be used to cut a furrow for a beginning and is of great advantage in sod. The depth of drains depends much on the nature of the ground. For general purposes three feet is a good depth. Porous ground can be ditched deeper to advantage, compact shallower. The greatest benefit from tile drainage are obtained from ground having very little or no natural fall or outlet. And requires the greatest skill to drain. Any one can get a fair idea of where would be a good location for main and lateral drains by surveying the ground during a freshet. Generally the natural watercourse is the best route for the main, yet where there is a great bulk of water some other course is sometimes economical, avoiding me- anderings and thus gaining greater fall which enormously increases the capacity of tile and is a safe guard against their obstruction by sediment. Never try to make water run up hill even for an inch. The best way to level a ditch is to watch the flow of a streamlet on the bottom and dress the bottom even with a ditch scoop. Or an even grade can be made by using a spirit level and boning rods, but it should be known that a perfectly true spirit level is a rare instrument and should be accurately tested before using in the field. J. K. Decatur Co. \ 2nd Premium. As to the best methods of tile drainage. I would require my drains as freeVrom cracks as possible be sure to havexjile large enough. Too many make a larre mistake in putting in too small sized tiik In no case would I put in less than fou\ inch tile, be sure the bottom of your dralnis even and give it as mnch fall as you can, any unevenness in your tile will fill up\he tile just that much, don't lay any tifv until you get your ditch dug. Diggings few rods and laying the tile then digginV a few rods more and so on until your bitch is dug is liable to cause you to lose ytar fall and make low places in your ditch, and your ditch won't work good. Be su\o also to get your tile below freezing, d^n't put] /,'. in culls because you get them cheap,they are dear in the long rnn. Don't let trees grow near your tile drains, especially elm or willowf I have seen tile completely choked up with elm roots. "When your ditch is completed fix a few wires across the mouth of your tile so rabbits, ground hogs, skunks, can't get in; be sure also to keep the mouth of your ditch clear so the water will not back up in your tile. Tile ditching I think is ono of the most expensive and needful things on many of our farms, and I know of nothing done on farms that should be done right or not at all. But how often do we see it done that way^I am sorry to say lt, but I do not believe one-half of the tile that I know of is just in right and the result Is money thrown away. W. II. P. Carroll Co. 3d Premium.—I understand by practical drainage you desire a discussion of plans for accomplishing not only the most successful results but also the cheapest method. I suppose there are two results which everyone hopes to accomplish when he drains a field with tile. One Is to relieve his land of surplus water the other to aerate and lighten the soil. Perhaps we do not realize the extreme porosity of the soil. We all remember from our school days that dirt proper, js simply fragments of rock which have been separated from the .parent stone, by the action of the elements working through unnumbered cycles of years, I4_ow*v»-*--**"*eve*i_B---tfy^ap^ large a portion was stone and how small a part was vegetable matter until recently, when I had the privilege, through the courtesy of Dr. Hervey, of Fortville, of examining a fragment of earth in a microscope which increased Its apparent size 1,700 diameters. I then found that the finest dust had the appearance of crystals with only an occasional particle of vegetable matter. In places where the dust was more than one thickness It looked like a pile of stones of irregular shape as stated above which held each other apart leaving each other proportionally large air spaces. If there is no outlet for the water all these spaces are full of it unless relieved by evaporation. To what extent the soil would be deprived of It by a tile, I am unable to say, but experience seems to show that it does not rob the plants. The tile instead seems to act as a governor for by removing the surplus water it Invites the air to take its place, thereby preserving a happy mean conducive to plant growth. It has also been noticed where tile drains are deep that on a day when the warm air is heavy with moisture as will frequently happen even in a severe drouth,in passing up the drains it will lose its moisture by condensation to such an extent as to cause the drains to run, thereby filling the soil contiguous to the tile and throughout its entire length with moisture which can then be appropriated by capillary attraction. From which premises I draw the following .conclusions: 1. Drain thoroughly, that ls, closely. 2. Use large tile not for water only but for air. 3. Drain deep. As to methods of digging, I have sometimes taken out the depth of a dead furrow, with a plow but the remainder with old- fashioned elbow grease and a spade. Rob Roy. bbvikw. Perhaps I may be allowed the honor of saying that my father' introduced the first wooden ditch and the first tile ditch in this community. The spotted clay and black soil of central Indiana, back from water courses, is all benefited by tiling. Our sandy river land is helped only in places and often dries ont Into a bed of gravel which is too near the surface. Our wettest ground is generally the blackest soil and being very coarse and | porous dries quicker when ditched than the clay land. i We can work well ditched "wet land" sooner after rain than our so-called high dry clay soil even if it ls also well ditched. There is lots of nonsense about employing surveyors to lay out ditches. And a whole lot of expense may often be piled np on a job. I like for tile to be 40 inches deep in our black soil an 30 inches in the clay soil. I have used a riding plow throwing a furrow right and left. Then a deep furrow In the middle. One tile spade from the bottom will put tile deep enough on clay land. A handy man with a little running water will make a good bottom with a drawing scoop. And we lay tile with a stick with a piece nailed on It like a carpenter's square. By standing on the bank both making bottom and laying tiio we can do better work. The secret of tile Is that lt promptly lowers the water table to 30 or 40 Inches, this makes a sponge reservoir of the soil which takes up a good rain without washing and also absorbs it below the surface and lt is not stagnant about plant roots. • 1^visited Chamberlain's farm in northern Ohio,Vnd"h6—trt-s-a-inch.,glazed collar tile, .about .two. rods apart- aii 3<\ inches deep oyer his clay land. Their soil Is unlike'ours. ".HlspltfW .was break.-; ing'for wheit and as I-pre'ssedi back with my'flbot a partly^ turned sod instead of crumbling over my foot it bent and checked in many cracks and laid back tough. He showed me his large orchard, one- half was greener and had longer new twigs. That half had no advantage more than a 2-inch tile 30 inches deep between every two rows of trees. . I agree that nothing less than 4-inch should be used ln valleys. ]!ut for knolls and fiat land, fine high land, sad enough to need a lino every two rods, I would use 2 inch tile. It serves every purpose and Is much cheaper and more easily hauled and handled. I once stood a 4-inch tile on end in cement on a piece of glass and filled It with water. It soon dampened through but the capillary attraction of the particles of tile did not allow the water to drip except on the lower one inch. I placed cement on the top of this tile and stood a second tile on it and filled with water and tho-moisture then stood in minute drops all over the lower tile and an inch of the bottom of the upper tile. So it took a column of water 11 Inches high to press throngh a cherry red tile. And when 30 inches of water is above a line it will [go in through cracks and pores both. I had a long line of tile in my bottom field with little fall and the branch filled above the mouth and run it full ot sand for more than a rod. I expected to have it to take up. But after a big rain I noticed it was clean and had cut quite a notch in tho bank of the brook on the opposite side. One mustn't never dare go in debt to build a fine house or buy a nice rig or team. But he may be fairly reckless in going in debt for ditchiug land that needs it. It will not only pay interest but often liquidate the entire debt in one crop. If any man knows of a farmer who was "broke" by putting money in tile I wish you would send his address. I can not agree with Kob Hoy that damp air condenses water enough in a deep tile to start a (low. We often witness low streams renew flowing when the air becomes lighter. Not much air passes into the mouth ot a tile. If drawn through in a strong stream much moisture would condense. We were surprised to receive only three letters on such an Important topic. Heretofore we have received so much copy. No. 29, Sept. 20.—Describe a convenient arrangement for keeping milk and butter for family use. No. 30, Oct. 3d. How do you manage poultry In fall and'winter—variety preferred for eggs and for market? _. Topic No. 31, Oct. 10th.—What is your money crop? How do you plan your farm management so as to make money? Topic No 32.—Oct 17th—Tell our readers what the saloon does for you and your neighbors. Ask your county clerk what additional taxes you pay on account ot the crime and poverty resulting from the nuisance. Please send copy early. If our friends will writo as soon as you can on any of these topics, your copy will be filed away and be ready whou the topic is published. E. H. COI-LINS. Importance of Hye As a Crop. Perhaps no other grain possesses moro desirable qualities of usefulness for the farmer than the sometimes abused rye. While It is not a difficult matter to find men who would not have a grain of rye on thou,- ta___,-i.._. - it to capable, if rightly handlCt?. ot serving es good a purpose as .Stfy^prop. wblch;»i»^^e*-ea»ialse-- _ Kye should he *,;)wn. _-lr"~-i•-, att*r harvest as-possible. It __>-jo* parneaiany partial to any one kjnd of soil although light, rather than heavy land is best for it. It makes good and rapid growth and can be pastured quite late in the fall, in fact, until winter sets in. As soon as the snow is off the ground in spring it can be again pastured. It grows rapidly and will usually keep a herd of stock, unless too many hoad per acre are rapidly turned into it. It is an ideal place in which to keep hogs of any age, the rye field. Nothing affords such abundance of pasture iu the eastern or middle States. It quickly recovers after close cropping and requires but little moisture to keep it growing. As it heads out considerably earlier than other grain, it may be cut for hay If desired and the land then put into potatoes, beans or corn. Or the pasturing may be continued while the grain ripens. Hogs will run in a rye field all summer, requiring no other food and be fat enough to kill in the fall, although a few weeks feeding on corn is thought desirable. I have known a drove of 20 hogs being kept all summer in an orchard sowed to rye with no other food, and sold to the butcher . without a day's extra feed. The rye thus treated self seeds and comes up again green and thick as a mat in the fall. By some rye is allowed to mature its seed and the crop threshed, but the writer prefers to cut while green and make Into hay, or turn under for manure rather than to have the rye springing up in other crops. So the seed is bought from year to year. To those who have never tried it I would say, sow a field of ryo this year. Sow it early and do not be afraid to pasture it late. It will come on nicely in the spring, affording pasturage long before the grass is big enough to turn into.. Keep it fed down as long as possible,' but when it begins to joint keep out the stook if you want it for hay or to perfect the grain for threshing. In cutting for hay cut before it begins to turn yellow at the roots, so that it will be green and nice when cured. If it can be used for hogs let them remain in it all summer, and you will find it the easiest way of fattening them you ever tried. Nothing makes spring pigs grow equal to it, although a little ground feed may be fed to advantage at any time, and milk the same.—N. Y. Farmer. 3 A pocket of marsh gas was struck at Wanatah, at a depth of 410 feet. |
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