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VOL. XXXI. INDIANAPOLIS, IND., AUG. 22, 1896. NO. 34 EXPERIENCE DEPARTMENT Digging and Storing Potatoes. 1st Premium.—The digging and storing of potatoes by the average farmer is generally done in a very careless manner. The etsential point is to retain the flavor until used, and to do this they should never be left exposed to the sun or air. Karly varieties should be dug as soon as tops are dead, or when the skin ceases to slip from the potato. If early varieties are left in gronnd they will sprout and thus destroy the flavor. Late varieties may be left in the ground until in danger of freezing. As soon as dug they should be immediately stored in a dark, cool, and somewhat moist, cellar. And right here is where some may differ with me, as some recommend a dry place In which to store. If stored in a dry place they will wilt and become strong. I liave noticed potatoes that remained ln tbe groand over winters that did not freeze, that were as fresh and well flavored as when first matured. If stored in a very dry cellar they should be covered with moist sawdust to keep them fresh and exlude the air. Pitting is a most excellent way; simply piling them on well drained ground and putting on a layer of straw and enough dirt to keep from freezing. Care should be taken to uncover aa soon as danger from freezing toes stored in this way keep sound and do not shrivel and wilt as they do in an ordinary cellar. It pays me the best to sell most of the crop at digging time, as it saves much handling, they are disposed of and out of the way and one has the use of the money. II. S. Blatchley. Putnam Co. REVIEW. tatoes keep will depend in great part on x "* , *""■''*___**._ _._. ^_ ___ .. _. and afterwards. Large or small mounds removed. As to manner of digging, if five acres or more are to be dug, it would probably pay to use a potato digger, but if less than that amount, the work can be done with a four tined fork garden spade, or plowed with common breaking plow. Warrenton, III. C. K. II. 3rd Premium.—nigging should not be begun until vines are thoroughly dry. If weather is very dry potatoes will be as well off dug late as early. Circumstances rule however. Besides putting digging off until late may expose them to a wet spell and sprout them. They should not be exposed to the bliBtoring sun any great length of time, but placed under shelter, open and free to the air. They should be dry and very little heaped, especially during hot weather. As the cold weather comes on the storing of them may bo looked to. Perhaps a large, airy frost proof .ce lar is the best place for them, safest and most convenient, fn the absence of suitable cellar an earthen mound will do. A high and dry location should be. selected. A slightly heaped bed should be prepared. First boards and then straw should be placed upon this. Hereon placo the potatoes, well heaped. Overspread with straw and then cover well with dirt. Cover with boards or thatch with corn fodder, l.e sure to do this well, for how well the po- and afterwards. Large or may be used as will suit best. X. Y. 2d Premium. I dig and store potatoes in various ways according to the amount grown. When I dig only -a few bushels for a near market I throw them out with the spading fork and leave them on the ground for a short time to dry out, being careful not to let them get sun-burned. When I dig my main crop in the fall I use a potato digger, of which there are several good kinds, which throw out the tubers as fast as the team can walk, leaving them ln small heaps on top ot the ground. These I let lay on the ground for a few hours"*-to _;dry and then store them, either in the cellar or in pits. When I put them in the cellar I use bins slatted on the bottom and Sides to give ventilation, and cover them with dry straw to keep them from exposure to the light. - This keeps them dark and cool so that their eating qualities are not injured. If 'they commence, io sprout they are over- - "hauled and moved a little which stops their, sprouting. Potatoes which are kept for. sale and to plant in the spring I put in pits' on top of the ground. I select a dry spot of ground where the water will run off'and away from the pit, and on this put dry straw about a foot deep. The potatoes are piled up on top of this straw in an oblong ridge from 25 to 50 bnshels in the pile, and covered with more dry straw abont a foot in depth. With a spade I commence about a foot from the bottom of the pit and thrust it into the gronnd about a foot deep, making a circular ring all around the pit. Outside of this ring I spade up the soil all around, and cover tbe bottom of the pit some three feet in height with the dirt, to the depth of a foot. This I trample down (irmly on the top and sides and then throw on another ring of dirt to the top and trample the whole down firmly, and spat it with the back of thospade. I ventilate the pile by means of a pnmp tube the Inner end resting on top of the potatoes nnder the straw and the outer end extending outside some two feet or more, the outer end the lowest to keep the rain from running into the potatoes. This lets the foul air and dampness out. Pota- As to digging potatoes I think that they should be dug as soon as they are good and ripe, but care should be taken not to dig them until they are thoroughly ripe, as they will be sure to rot. When the time comes to gather the potatoes I take one horse and the one horse turning plow and turn the potatoes up on top of the ridge where they can be easily picked up. Potatoes should be got out before tho weeds come in the patch too bad, as the potatoes are so much easier to get. One time to the row with the plow generally turns out the most of the pottatoes, then harrow the patch well, and if there be any potatoes left ln the ground they can now be easily got, and the ground is now ln good condition to sow to turnips without any extra work. For sorting potatoes I have a good dry cellar, and as soon as the potatoes are dug I assortthem and put the large nice ones in the cellar on shelves made of plank, where they stay until used. They keep well this way un til late in the spring. I never have any trouble with potatoes rotting, as some do. I think that if they are handled right there is but little danger of their rotting, and they don't have to be handled like eggs either. J. D. L. Some people will dig their potatoes too soon and put them in the cellar in a geen state, and a good many times in a wet state and then complain about their all rotting. We pick peas, peaches and berries a little green, because they will not bear shipping too ripe. Hut it is not so with potatoes. They should not be dug while tho skin will slip on them or we can not expect them to keep very well. I dig my potatoes as soon as they are ripe enough, so the skin will not slip, and before the weed3 have taken the patch. I go once in the row with a potato digger and pick them up, and put in sacks and store them in my cellar; so once handling leaves them in their winter quarters. Please bear in mind that I do not dig them when the ground ls wet enough to stick to tbe potatoes, but I want them perfectly dry before I store them in the cellar. I never lost a bushel of potatoes in my life by rotting. After I have dug my potatoes I harrow tho gronnd and sow to turnips, picking np the potatoes that have been missed. Harrison Co. A IIoomikr. As our Illinois correspondent gays "the natural winter quarters for the potato is where it grows." Naturally potatoes never see the light from generation to generation. But they grow in the fertile, well drained mountain valleys far away from swaggy places where water stands. We all have theories on the subject and among popular practices I see many traditions not well founded. In storing artichokes iu pits we mix moist dirt all through among them to prevent wilting, and take them out in the spring with wire shovels. Potatoes do not wilt as rapidly, but will shrink many pounds if ln a dry cellar as friend Lemay says. The best place I ever stored potatoes in is my potato cellar, walled with brick and built bedded iu a tough claybank. The dirt about level with the top of the wall aud the door on the down hill side openB out to a level with the cellar bottom. This is covered with a Hat ceiling with 18 inches of sawdust and a flat steel roof. We screen potatoes with a revolving wire screen of my own invention, and take out dirt and small ones to a mesh one and one-half inch square, and carry them in on a level with the wagon. No up-stairs in loading for market. There la occasionally water on tho collar bottom, but it runs out at the door. My bins have" floors to guard against this wet bottom. The cellar is always quite damp and very cold and absolutely dark. We opened this cellar ono spring the lirst week of May to cut seed and it was so cold we had to wear overcoats to sit and cut; we would get so chilled and stiff. After cutting a day or two with tho door open we dropped the overcoat. Tho seed had not started and wo feared it was not right, but it soon "brightened up." A "dry collar" "under a warm kitchen" is a good placo to keep bees, but not "taters." As to drying at digging time, wo like to dig when the soil crumbles and it is a dry air. But we pick up without further waiting for drying. If external wet Is oft as it will quickly be while handling we are safe. Wo have a chimney ventilator to the cellar that draws from the bottom and top. But I don't take much stock tn there being "foul gases" in a potato hill or cellar. • I believe all our correspondents who bury, pile on top of the ground or on straw. This is tradition. We plowed and scooped out a long pit on the brow of a knoll, extending straight back instead of parallel with the hill; Bnd the lower end of tho pit would allow water if it got in tho pit to run out down hill. The bottom of this pit was 18 inches wide, and c .vered with a wide plank to scoop on. The sides sloped about iV) degrees, so the potatoes would seek the scoop board. The pit was about two feet deep. We pour the tubers right on the ground, and when full wo ridge them up as high as they will live. Then cover with a foot of straw and four inches of dirt, leaving a strip of bare straw along the top till cold weather comes. We do not put dirt down; it turns cold better if left loose. We put a shed of sawed plank above the hill. When cold weather comes we cover about 18 inches deep at sides and six inches on top with dirt, and then a layer of sawdust, four inches over all. Sometimes chaff. Tbis is a wonderful protection and does as much good In preventing spouting in the early spring as preventing frost in winter. About half of the sprouting of potatoes in the hill is in the fall, and may be prevented by omitting the dirt cover as long as possible. AVe never dig to store until the middle of Sop tern. ier,an<l In this climate I never knew potatoes to sprout or take a second growth to hurt them before digging. In fact in the South, where they grow two crops a year, they have to dig the lirst crop and expose to the sun to get it to grow the same year. Howmany may wo store in one hill? We increase the length of the hill as necessary. The break plow or shovel plow are a nuisance to dig with. They waste enough to buy a digger, antl It is slow and costly picking. The ordinary prong diggers are worse yet: being too steep they pushdlrt and all ahead aud roll it into the middle and cover many tubers. The best cheap digger I havo used ls the Deering I believe— at any rate it ls a shaker. A sprocket wheel rolls under the platform of rods, running back from the plow and shakes lt up and down as you move along. Wo plow out overy other row, and drive a wagon along, picking up in tobacco buckets or baskets. While this load Is being screened and put away another keeps tho wagon help employed. We would often sell from the Held, as far as price is concerned, bnt Indianapolis Is liftoen miles away, and we don't want to stop digging to send to town. Whenever they are ready "tho skin don't lip," as two or more say, we hustle them out, and sow wheat with a rush, and then we can haul to market if we wish. -•-. H. COLLINS. No. IB, Aug. 2!).—Economical hog feeding for .market—{does not -itrc~iSdB-~bTevu-. Ing. ' '• """•" ' " • No. 26, Sept. 5.—How do you cut, euro and feed corn fodder? l.xperlonce with corn harvesters. No. 27, Sept. 12.—Do you support tho local and Stato fairs? In whatwaydo thoy help you, and how may thoy bo Improved? No. 28, Sept. I.e.—Tiio drainage. Practical methods of ditching. Size of tile, etc. No. isi,Sept.2(i— Describe a convenient arrangement for keeping milk and butter for family use. If our friends will write as soon as you can on any of these topics, your copy will be filed away and be ready when tho topic is published. Weather Service Report. The Agricultural Experiment Station at Purdue University. A~o. JO, Weekly Crop liulletin, Monday, Autj.17, 1KMJ, Central Station, Indianapolis, Ind. Warm weather with numerous, heavy local rains continued, except In the southwestern portion of tho State where no rain has fallen for sometime. Corn in the southern portion is maturing fast and some is nearly safe from frost, while later planted will be in the beginning of September; inthe northern and central portions corn is maturing moro slowly because of much rain and lt is ln all stages of progress; with less rain it will be safe from September lst, to 15th, although rain and damage ln localities by inundation, the corn crop will be exceedingly large. In the southern portion threshing is done; in the central and northern portions, because of frequent rains,threshlng advanced only slowly and much wheat and oats have been ruined in shock. Clover cutting and hulling progresses; a good crop of millet is ready to cut; the sorgum crop will be heavy in localities; largo crops of tomatoes,cabbage and beans aro ln good condition; the gathorlng of tomatoes continued; buckwheat promises a good yield. Au unusual largo crop of tobacco is being cut; the season Is about three weeks in advance; potatoes will be a large crop although many are rotting in local ties; pears, plums and grapes are very abundant; pasturage is in best condition; plowing for wheat, progresses only slowly because of wet weather, and in the southwestern portion because it is too dry. George Harris, a Big Four brakeman, fell under the cars at Bolivar, losing both legs. He lives at Marion.
Object Description
Title | Indiana farmer, 1896, v. 31, no. 34 (Aug. 22) |
Purdue Identification Number | INFA3134 |
Date of Original | 1896 |
Subjects (LCSH) |
Agriculture Farm management Horticulture Agricultural machinery |
Subjects (NALT) |
agriculture farm management horticulture agricultural machinery and equipment |
Genre | Periodical |
Call Number of Original | 630.5 In2 |
Location of Original | Hicks Repository |
Coverage | United States - Indiana |
Type | text |
Format | JP2 |
Language | eng |
Collection Title | Indiana Farmer |
Rights Statement | Content in the Indiana Farmer Collection is in the public domain (published before 1923) or lacks a known copyright holder. Digital images in the collection may be used for educational, non-commercial, or not-for-profit purposes. |
Repository | Purdue University Libraries |
Date Digitized | 2011-03-03 |
Digitization Information | Original scanned at 300 ppi on a Bookeye 3 scanner using internal software. Display images generated in CONTENTdm as JP2000s; file format for archival copy is uncompressed TIF format. |
Description
Title | Page 1 |
Subjects (LCSH) |
Agriculture Farm management Horticulture Agricultural machinery |
Subjects (NALT) |
agriculture farm management horticulture agricultural machinery and equipment |
Genre | Periodical |
Call Number of Original | 630.5 In2 |
Location of Original | Hicks Repository |
Coverage | Indiana |
Type | text |
Format | JP2 |
Language | eng |
Collection Title | Indiana Farmer |
Rights Statement | Content in the Indiana Farmer Collection is in the public domain (published before 1923) or lacks a known copyright holder. Digital images in the collection may be used for educational, non-commercial, or non-for-profit purposes. |
Repository | Purdue University Libraries |
Digitization Information | Orignal scanned at 300 ppi on a Bookeye 3 scanner using internal software. Display images generated in CONTENTdm as JP2000s; file format for archival copy is uncompressed TIF format. |
Transcript |
VOL. XXXI.
INDIANAPOLIS, IND., AUG. 22, 1896.
NO. 34
EXPERIENCE DEPARTMENT
Digging and Storing Potatoes.
1st Premium.—The digging and storing
of potatoes by the average farmer is generally done in a very careless manner.
The etsential point is to retain the flavor
until used, and to do this they should
never be left exposed to the sun or air.
Karly varieties should be dug as soon as
tops are dead, or when the skin ceases to
slip from the potato. If early varieties
are left in gronnd they will sprout and
thus destroy the flavor. Late varieties
may be left in the ground until in danger of freezing. As soon as dug they
should be immediately stored in a dark,
cool, and somewhat moist, cellar. And
right here is where some may differ
with me, as some recommend a dry place
In which to store. If stored in a dry
place they will wilt and become strong.
I liave noticed potatoes that remained ln
tbe groand over winters that did not
freeze, that were as fresh and well flavored as when first matured. If stored
in a very dry cellar they should be covered with moist sawdust to keep them
fresh and exlude the air. Pitting is a
most excellent way; simply piling them
on well drained ground and putting on a
layer of straw and enough dirt to keep
from freezing. Care should be taken to
uncover aa soon as danger from freezing
toes stored in this way keep sound and do
not shrivel and wilt as they do in an ordinary cellar. It pays me the best to sell
most of the crop at digging time, as it
saves much handling, they are disposed
of and out of the way and one has the use
of the money. II. S. Blatchley.
Putnam Co.
REVIEW.
tatoes keep will depend in great part on
x "* , *""■''*___**._ _._. ^_ ___ .. _. and afterwards. Large or small mounds
removed. As to manner of digging, if five
acres or more are to be dug, it would
probably pay to use a potato digger, but
if less than that amount, the work can be
done with a four tined fork garden spade,
or plowed with common breaking plow.
Warrenton, III. C. K. II.
3rd Premium.—nigging should not be
begun until vines are thoroughly dry. If
weather is very dry potatoes will be as
well off dug late as early. Circumstances
rule however. Besides putting digging
off until late may expose them to a wet
spell and sprout them. They should not
be exposed to the bliBtoring sun any
great length of time, but placed under
shelter, open and free to the air. They
should be dry and very little heaped, especially during hot weather. As the
cold weather comes on the storing of
them may bo looked to. Perhaps a large,
airy frost proof .ce lar is the best place for
them, safest and most convenient, fn
the absence of suitable cellar an earthen
mound will do. A high and dry location
should be. selected. A slightly heaped
bed should be prepared. First boards
and then straw should be placed upon
this. Hereon placo the potatoes, well
heaped. Overspread with straw and
then cover well with dirt. Cover with
boards or thatch with corn fodder, l.e
sure to do this well, for how well the po-
and afterwards. Large or
may be used as will suit best.
X. Y.
2d Premium. I dig and store potatoes
in various ways according to the amount
grown. When I dig only -a few bushels
for a near market I throw them out with
the spading fork and leave them on the
ground for a short time to dry out, being
careful not to let them get sun-burned.
When I dig my main crop in the fall I
use a potato digger, of which there are
several good kinds, which throw out the
tubers as fast as the team can walk, leaving them ln small heaps on top ot the
ground. These I let lay on the ground
for a few hours"*-to _;dry and then store
them, either in the cellar or in pits. When
I put them in the cellar I use bins slatted
on the bottom and Sides to give ventilation, and cover them with dry straw to
keep them from exposure to the light.
- This keeps them dark and cool so that
their eating qualities are not injured. If
'they commence, io sprout they are over-
- "hauled and moved a little which stops
their, sprouting. Potatoes which are kept
for. sale and to plant in the spring I put
in pits' on top of the ground. I select a
dry spot of ground where the water will
run off'and away from the pit, and on
this put dry straw about a foot deep. The
potatoes are piled up on top of this straw
in an oblong ridge from 25 to 50 bnshels
in the pile, and covered with more dry
straw abont a foot in depth. With a
spade I commence about a foot from the
bottom of the pit and thrust it into the
gronnd about a foot deep, making a circular ring all around the pit. Outside of
this ring I spade up the soil all around,
and cover tbe bottom of the pit some
three feet in height with the dirt, to the
depth of a foot. This I trample down
(irmly on the top and sides and then
throw on another ring of dirt to the top
and trample the whole down firmly, and
spat it with the back of thospade. I ventilate the pile by means of a pnmp tube
the Inner end resting on top of the potatoes nnder the straw and the outer end
extending outside some two feet or more,
the outer end the lowest to keep the rain
from running into the potatoes. This
lets the foul air and dampness out. Pota-
As to digging potatoes I think that they
should be dug as soon as they are good
and ripe, but care should be taken not to
dig them until they are thoroughly ripe,
as they will be sure to rot. When the
time comes to gather the potatoes I take
one horse and the one horse turning plow
and turn the potatoes up on top of the
ridge where they can be easily picked up.
Potatoes should be got out before tho
weeds come in the patch too bad, as the
potatoes are so much easier to get. One
time to the row with the plow generally
turns out the most of the pottatoes, then
harrow the patch well, and if there be
any potatoes left ln the ground they can
now be easily got, and the ground is now
ln good condition to sow to turnips without any extra work. For sorting potatoes
I have a good dry cellar, and as soon as
the potatoes are dug I assortthem and put
the large nice ones in the cellar on
shelves made of plank, where they stay
until used. They keep well this way un
til late in the spring. I never have any
trouble with potatoes rotting, as some do.
I think that if they are handled right
there is but little danger of their rotting,
and they don't have to be handled like
eggs either. J. D. L.
Some people will dig their potatoes
too soon and put them in the cellar in a
geen state, and a good many times in a
wet state and then complain about their
all rotting. We pick peas, peaches and
berries a little green, because they will
not bear shipping too ripe. Hut it is not
so with potatoes. They should not be
dug while tho skin will slip on them or
we can not expect them to keep very
well. I dig my potatoes as soon as they
are ripe enough, so the skin will not
slip, and before the weed3 have taken the
patch. I go once in the row with a potato digger and pick them up, and put in
sacks and store them in my cellar; so
once handling leaves them in their winter quarters. Please bear in mind that I
do not dig them when the ground ls wet
enough to stick to tbe potatoes, but I
want them perfectly dry before I store
them in the cellar. I never lost a bushel
of potatoes in my life by rotting. After I
have dug my potatoes I harrow tho
gronnd and sow to turnips, picking np
the potatoes that have been missed.
Harrison Co. A IIoomikr.
As our Illinois correspondent gays "the
natural winter quarters for the potato is
where it grows." Naturally potatoes
never see the light from generation to
generation. But they grow in the fertile,
well drained mountain valleys far away
from swaggy places where water stands.
We all have theories on the subject and
among popular practices I see many traditions not well founded.
In storing artichokes iu pits we mix
moist dirt all through among them to
prevent wilting, and take them out in
the spring with wire shovels. Potatoes
do not wilt as rapidly, but will shrink
many pounds if ln a dry cellar as friend
Lemay says.
The best place I ever stored potatoes in
is my potato cellar, walled with brick
and built bedded iu a tough claybank.
The dirt about level with the top of the
wall aud the door on the down hill side
openB out to a level with the cellar bottom. This is covered with a Hat ceiling
with 18 inches of sawdust and a flat steel
roof.
We screen potatoes with a revolving
wire screen of my own invention, and
take out dirt and small ones to a mesh
one and one-half inch square, and carry
them in on a level with the wagon. No
up-stairs in loading for market. There
la occasionally water on tho collar bottom, but it runs out at the door. My bins
have" floors to guard against this wet bottom. The cellar is always quite damp
and very cold and absolutely dark.
We opened this cellar ono spring the
lirst week of May to cut seed and it was
so cold we had to wear overcoats to sit
and cut; we would get so chilled and stiff.
After cutting a day or two with tho door
open we dropped the overcoat. Tho seed
had not started and wo feared it was not
right, but it soon "brightened up."
A "dry collar" "under a warm kitchen"
is a good placo to keep bees, but not
"taters."
As to drying at digging time, wo like to
dig when the soil crumbles and it is a
dry air. But we pick up without further
waiting for drying. If external wet Is
oft as it will quickly be while handling
we are safe. Wo have a chimney ventilator to the cellar that draws from the
bottom and top. But I don't take much
stock tn there being "foul gases" in a
potato hill or cellar.
• I believe all our correspondents who
bury, pile on top of the ground or on
straw. This is tradition.
We plowed and scooped out a long pit
on the brow of a knoll, extending
straight back instead of parallel with the
hill; Bnd the lower end of tho pit would
allow water if it got in tho pit to run out
down hill.
The bottom of this pit was 18 inches
wide, and c .vered with a wide plank to
scoop on. The sides sloped about iV) degrees, so the potatoes would seek the
scoop board. The pit was about two feet
deep. We pour the tubers right on the
ground, and when full wo ridge them up
as high as they will live. Then cover
with a foot of straw and four inches of
dirt, leaving a strip of bare straw along
the top till cold weather comes.
We do not put dirt down; it turns cold
better if left loose. We put a shed of
sawed plank above the hill. When
cold weather comes we cover about 18
inches deep at sides and six inches on
top with dirt, and then a layer of sawdust, four inches over all. Sometimes
chaff. Tbis is a wonderful protection
and does as much good In preventing
spouting in the early spring as preventing frost in winter.
About half of the sprouting of potatoes
in the hill is in the fall, and may be prevented by omitting the dirt cover as
long as possible. AVe never dig to store
until the middle of Sop tern. ier,an |
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