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EXPERIENCE DEPARTMENT Renovating an Orchard. 1st Premium.—If the land has not been properly drained this should first be attended to. If the soil is poor give it a coating of barn-yard manure ln late fall or early winter, more or less, according to its needs. It is not likely that the orchard whioh needs renovating is with, ont vacanoies. Select varieties that are known to do well ln yonr vicinity, planting the early kinds nearest the honse, as very many trips to the orohard for them will be required dnring the summer and fall, whilst the winter apples can all be hanled in at one time. Seenre a continuous snpply, from the earliest on throughout the entire year, especially of the good keepers. Of the summer apples two kinds can be grafted Into one top, whilst of the best winter varieties it may be desirable to have three or four trees of one kind. If the old trees were too olose together for the fruit to ripen and color np well, remedy this by placing the new ones at a proper distance apart, otherwise they may be put In the same place where the old ones stood and will grow and bear well, always provided a large excavation is made, and fine, rich earth, not manure, is properly filled in among the roots and firmed down well. We prefer to plant as soon as the leaves are off in the fall, as the roots will then become established during winter, and they start into growth withont check in the spring. If a good muloh is given at the same time it promotes root growth and is a great protection from drouth during the following summer, after whioh time it will generally make rapid growth. Oo through the old trees carefully, removing all dead and decaying branches, shaping up the old tops into as well balanced beads as possible, to seenre them against winds and strengthen them for the weight of frnit they are sure to bear. Often one lone branoh will bear all the nioe fruit the family will need until a new tree of the same variety will come Into bearing. Even a water sprout, if oarefully looked after and kept thinned ont, and in shape, so that no vitality is wasted in making superfluous wood, to be cut out before it can bear, will make a very satisfactory makeshift, and bear good orops. If old trunks are rough and moes covered, scrape the loose bark off, and apply either a lime wash, strong soap dissolved lye, or Bordeaux mixture, to destroy fungus, and the eggs and larvae of inseots which are deposited therein. Pear trees that have escaped fire blight, yet bear full of scabby and cracked frnit, may be remedied by thoronghly thinning out the tips, letting in the air and sunlight, and spraying with Bardeaux mixture. Cherry trees which are so old, large and tender as to be unsafe to olimb and out of reaoh of a 20 foot ladder, may safely and profltaoly have their long branches sawed off at a satisfactory height, and the frnit picked at leisure on terra flrma. New shoots will start out at once, and will bear finer fruit than the old ones 'rom the very first year. One or two only may be cut from each tree eaoh year " preferred, thus keeping large bearing ■wood until new tops are formed. We take it for granted the orchard is in grass. This should not be out and hanled off, nor pastured close. Mow beneath all treea as the fruit ripens.to facilitate plok- tog fruit up, and mulch other trees with !'. or replace after the fruit is gone. If hogs are secured from rooting lt is a 8'eat advantage to have them piok up all defective and wormy fruit. Aside from th»t, we like a nice clean swa_d, if well top dresstd with stable manure eaoh fall yon may confidently expect a f nU crop of frnit every fruit year, and fine fruit if spraying is done promptly. Old Farmer 2d Premium.—This is a subjeot that has been sadly neglected and many of our old orohards are almost past renovating, where they have been left forjyears and are grown np ln weeds and grass. The first thing to be done is to get rid of the grass and weeds. To do this we will de- stioy more or less of those little feeding roots whioh are near the surface, and we can't help It. I would use a breaking plow first, going just as shallow as possible to turn them under, then use a disk or spading harrow to fill all the little spaces to hold the moisture. After it is thoronghly pulverized we are ready for a good ooat of mannre to be scattered evenly all over the gronnd, with a pretty good sprinkle of ashes and salt. The ashes needn't be stinted in the amount and the salt may be sown thiok enongh to be seen. If anything is planted in the orohard it shonld be first potatoes or some orop that oan be attended with a small-toothed implement, so as not to disturb those little feeding rootlets of the orohard. The orchard should have all the dead limbs taken ont, and tops thinned, so as to admit of the free circulation of air through them, The limbs shonld be cat olose so they will soon heal over, but not close enough to Injure the bark of the body or other limbs. It should be tilled annually or sown to olover and the clover turned under as shallow as possible, keeping in mind those little rootlets or feeders.— Don't turn in stock of any kind to tramp the soil hard, unless it is small pigs; they might eat up the falling fruit and destroy the worms, eto. If large limbs are to be removed they might be painted over white lead, so as keep the wood sound until healed over. You might just as well expect corn to make a crop in a grass sod as an orchard to bear a crop of nice fruit treated the same way. Hamilton Co. Jesse Cox. 3d Premium.--Twelve years ago I bought one of the most dilapidated little farms to be fonnd in Ihdiana; the orchard wag in a worse condition even than the fences and buildings, with the prunings of former years lying nnder the trees. My first work was to cut down and burn 11 old worthless cherry trees that never bore a quart of good cherries to the tree. Then I pruned the apple trees and burned up all the brush; the old and the new. When the fruiting season came I found several of the trees were seedling apples and absolutely worthless, not fit even for vinegar. Such of these that could be, were grafted, a few were cut down and burned. The orchard did not appear healthy. The foliage did not have the rioh green tint it should, and on some of the trees it wonld turn yellow, and begin to fall before the end of June. For three years one fine bodied tree bloomed bountifully, but bore only little scabby apples. One summer day, the former owner was walking with me ln the orchard, I re. marked to him that I was going to cut it down, and said I could not see why any one should let sneh a worthless tree stand so long. "Why, that is an early harvest apple, it used to bear fine frnit, but the early harvest wouldn't do any good any more In this country," he said. "If that is an early harvest tree and used to bear good fruit it shall do so again," I replied. I began feeding my hogs in the orchard, feeding heavily under the early harvest tree. The first year I conld see but little effect, but kept on feeding there. Then the foilage began to tane, a rich green hue, and ceased to turn yellow and fall in June; the apples grew to their wonted size, perfect In every respect, and not a scabby apple to be found on the tree. The only fault I now find with the tree Is lt bears too heavily, and almost every year. Cut out all dead brandies; cut down all worthless trees; burn everything up and feed the hogs in the orchard, Marshall Co. Wm. It. D. In '93 we came in possession of an old orohard, which upon first thought we oonoluded to sow down in blue and make a permanent pasture of lt, regardless of fruit or trees. But on examining more olosely we found there were 25 old trees that were sound and that might with proper culture bs made to furnish us all the apples we would need. Among them are four Ben Davis, one Maiden Blush, two Vandevers, one Kambo and others equally as good. The first thing we did to renovate was to use the ax and saw without stint, outtlng and burning all faulty trees and limbs; also water sprouts and low limbs that would interfere in plowing close to trees. Any time when the sap is down it will do to trim. In the winter of '93 wo commenced to manure thoroughly, especially around the trees while ground is frozen. Then tho winter of '91 and '95 we fed hogs and cattle in it when not Bolt. In the spring of '95 we took out a partition fence between it and the adjoining field, and planted in corn and sowed in rye, and last spring In clover and timothy, so it is in clover at present. By the way we have manured around the tTees every winter with fresh stable mannre, this year have left four trees without manure to see If we could tell any difference. Will say that for two years we have had more nice fruit than could make use of. Had all we oould use all last winter. T. M. S. Madison Co. apple orchard and put nothing back, ln the shape of fertllitv, and reap a paying harvest. If we feed our trees they will feed uf, and vice versa. But the prloe of good, sound fruit, and enough of it, from this time on is "eternal vigllanoe." Putnam Co. H. S. Blatoiilev. To renovate an old orchard the first thing is to get all the old worthless trees cut down and burn them, and as the old orchard goes down there should be a good location picked out somewhere else on the farm and good yonng trees set out. I don't think it is of muoh use to set young trees In an old orchard, for they are sure to be neglected and not cultivated as they should be, I think lhat an orchard to be profitable shonld be kept well trimmed, manur.d and cultivated. I believe that manure is better for an orohard than fertilizer, because I think lt contains more of the elements suitable for an orchard than any one kind of fertilizer. An orchard shonld not be left so long as to require what I call renovation,but lt should have eome attention every year and more often, if needed. If large limbs get split down any way, I think they should be entirely severed from the tree immediately and not left hanging in the tree as so many people dountilspring when they clean up the orchard. David. The way I proceed is something like this: Remove carefully all dead branches and thin out the top sufficiently to let in the sun and air. Scrape the body of the treo and the main branches with a long- handed hoe and then remove all dead bark and moss. Apply a wash of diluted softsoap, or else give the trees a coating ot limewash. If I cultivate or plow under the trees I do lt shallow, so as not to break or disturb the root. Haul in all the ashes bath bleached and unbleached to be had, and then mulch the trees so far out as the limbs extend with old rotten straw, corn-stalks, coarse mannre, leaves from woods, or anything that will shade the gronnd and conserve moisture and prevent evaporation. This mulch is a benefit in various ways, the fruit hangs on better, is of much better quality, and it keeps the frnit from bruising as it falls from the tree; and as it decays it enriches the ground and gives new life, energy, vitality, and productions. Then spray the trees thoroughly some two or three limes, and thin tbe fruit where lt needs it, and you will be astonished at the result. The day is past when here ln Indiana we can take everything off an Cultivate every year; apply a heavy dressing of stablo manure in the fall if level; but if rolling, as early ln spring as possible, and turn under. X. Y. I bought my first fruit trees ln 1862 One hundred trees, two years old, 00 winter, 20 summor, and 20 fall varieties. Trees were somewhat neglected for want of pruning and cultivation, as several of the nursery hands had enlisted ln the army. I planted the trees on new, fresh, cleared, white oak land and headed tbem ln low down, making them short bodied and spready tops; cultivated them well for seven years, and was rewarded with abundant crops of fruit for three or four years. Seeded the orohard down to clover and It soon became a stiff sod of blue grasB, rod-top and timothy. Then my orchard began to fall in fruit, and my treea began to die, here and there, ovor tho orchard. I never Raftered stock of any kind In the orchard at any time, and as my apple crop gradually failed and several fine largo trees died, I concluded to re-aet with pear trees, sotting them 10 feet apart, leaving a few old apple trees, expecting them to die soon. But when I began to cultivate and prepare the ground for the pear trees, the old apple trees began to take on new life and bear more fruit and look more healthy. And now that portion of the orchard is entirely too thick to do well. The now points in the renovation of orchards are continued cultivation and proper fertilization. It ls folly to buy good trees and fall to take proper care of them and expect remunerative crops, and retain healthy, vigorous trees. The proper renovation of orchards is to buy first-class stock of responsible nurserymen, take proper care in planting out, pruning, cultivating, fertilizing, spraying and keeping insect pests and the much talked of fungns diseases from the trees by a better care of them. Jackson Co. D. M. Lett. The surest and best way to renovate an old orohard is|to pick a suitable location somewhero else on the farm for the young trees and let the old orchard stand to Itself. The dead trees should be cut out and the green, sound trees should be oared for as long as they are profitable. Young trees when set In an old orohard generally die in a few years. AH the nutrition that Is required for the growth of the tree has been absorbed by the old trees. There are but few old orchards In these parts that are not worn out long before the trees are all dead. We should manure and fertilize our orchards just as we do our other crops, If we expeot large, nice fruit and plenty of it. For the flrst few years we might raise a few crops of corn as we cultivate the orchard, or a few rows of strawberries or raspberries. Peach trees can be set between the apple trees, and till the apple trees come into bearing most ofthe peach trees will be out of the way. When the trees have commenced bearing sow oow peas or crimson clover ana let lt rot on the ground. We cannot take a crop of hay from the orchard every year and expect to get a crop of apples too. Apple trees should be set at least 35 feet apart; 40 ls better. W. B. Corydon. If the trees stand too closely together, as they may be found to do after they Continued an ISth page.
Object Description
Title | Indiana farmer, 1897, v. 32, no. 29 (July 17) |
Purdue Identification Number | INFA3229 |
Date of Original | 1897 |
Subjects (LCSH) |
Agriculture Farm management Horticulture Agricultural machinery |
Subjects (NALT) |
agriculture farm management horticulture agricultural machinery and equipment |
Genre | Periodical |
Call Number of Original | 630.5 In2 |
Location of Original | Hicks Repository |
Coverage | United States - Indiana |
Type | text |
Format | JP2 |
Language | eng |
Collection Title | Indiana Farmer |
Rights Statement | Content in the Indiana Farmer Collection is in the public domain (published before 1923) or lacks a known copyright holder. Digital images in the collection may be used for educational, non-commercial, or not-for-profit purposes. |
Repository | Purdue University Libraries |
Date Digitized | 2011-01-24 |
Digitization Information | Original scanned at 300 ppi on a Bookeye 3 scanner using internal software. Display images generated in CONTENTdm as JP2000s; file format for archival copy is uncompressed TIF format. |
Description
Title | Page 1 |
Subjects (LCSH) |
Agriculture Farm management Horticulture Agricultural machinery |
Subjects (NALT) |
agriculture farm management horticulture agricultural machinery and equipment |
Genre | Periodical |
Call Number of Original | 630.5 In2 |
Location of Original | Hicks Repository |
Coverage | Indiana |
Type | text |
Format | JP2 |
Language | eng |
Collection Title | Indiana Farmer |
Rights Statement | Content in the Indiana Farmer Collection is in the public domain (published before 1923) or lacks a known copyright holder. Digital images in the collection may be used for educational, non-commercial, or non-for-profit purposes. |
Repository | Purdue University Libraries |
Digitization Information | Orignal scanned at 300 ppi on a Bookeye 3 scanner using internal software. Display images generated in CONTENTdm as JP2000s; file format for archival copy is uncompressed TIF format. |
Transcript | EXPERIENCE DEPARTMENT Renovating an Orchard. 1st Premium.—If the land has not been properly drained this should first be attended to. If the soil is poor give it a coating of barn-yard manure ln late fall or early winter, more or less, according to its needs. It is not likely that the orchard whioh needs renovating is with, ont vacanoies. Select varieties that are known to do well ln yonr vicinity, planting the early kinds nearest the honse, as very many trips to the orohard for them will be required dnring the summer and fall, whilst the winter apples can all be hanled in at one time. Seenre a continuous snpply, from the earliest on throughout the entire year, especially of the good keepers. Of the summer apples two kinds can be grafted Into one top, whilst of the best winter varieties it may be desirable to have three or four trees of one kind. If the old trees were too olose together for the fruit to ripen and color np well, remedy this by placing the new ones at a proper distance apart, otherwise they may be put In the same place where the old ones stood and will grow and bear well, always provided a large excavation is made, and fine, rich earth, not manure, is properly filled in among the roots and firmed down well. We prefer to plant as soon as the leaves are off in the fall, as the roots will then become established during winter, and they start into growth withont check in the spring. If a good muloh is given at the same time it promotes root growth and is a great protection from drouth during the following summer, after whioh time it will generally make rapid growth. Oo through the old trees carefully, removing all dead and decaying branches, shaping up the old tops into as well balanced beads as possible, to seenre them against winds and strengthen them for the weight of frnit they are sure to bear. Often one lone branoh will bear all the nioe fruit the family will need until a new tree of the same variety will come Into bearing. Even a water sprout, if oarefully looked after and kept thinned ont, and in shape, so that no vitality is wasted in making superfluous wood, to be cut out before it can bear, will make a very satisfactory makeshift, and bear good orops. If old trunks are rough and moes covered, scrape the loose bark off, and apply either a lime wash, strong soap dissolved lye, or Bordeaux mixture, to destroy fungus, and the eggs and larvae of inseots which are deposited therein. Pear trees that have escaped fire blight, yet bear full of scabby and cracked frnit, may be remedied by thoronghly thinning out the tips, letting in the air and sunlight, and spraying with Bardeaux mixture. Cherry trees which are so old, large and tender as to be unsafe to olimb and out of reaoh of a 20 foot ladder, may safely and profltaoly have their long branches sawed off at a satisfactory height, and the frnit picked at leisure on terra flrma. New shoots will start out at once, and will bear finer fruit than the old ones 'rom the very first year. One or two only may be cut from each tree eaoh year " preferred, thus keeping large bearing ■wood until new tops are formed. We take it for granted the orchard is in grass. This should not be out and hanled off, nor pastured close. Mow beneath all treea as the fruit ripens.to facilitate plok- tog fruit up, and mulch other trees with !'. or replace after the fruit is gone. If hogs are secured from rooting lt is a 8'eat advantage to have them piok up all defective and wormy fruit. Aside from th»t, we like a nice clean swa_d, if well top dresstd with stable manure eaoh fall yon may confidently expect a f nU crop of frnit every fruit year, and fine fruit if spraying is done promptly. Old Farmer 2d Premium.—This is a subjeot that has been sadly neglected and many of our old orohards are almost past renovating, where they have been left forjyears and are grown np ln weeds and grass. The first thing to be done is to get rid of the grass and weeds. To do this we will de- stioy more or less of those little feeding roots whioh are near the surface, and we can't help It. I would use a breaking plow first, going just as shallow as possible to turn them under, then use a disk or spading harrow to fill all the little spaces to hold the moisture. After it is thoronghly pulverized we are ready for a good ooat of mannre to be scattered evenly all over the gronnd, with a pretty good sprinkle of ashes and salt. The ashes needn't be stinted in the amount and the salt may be sown thiok enongh to be seen. If anything is planted in the orohard it shonld be first potatoes or some orop that oan be attended with a small-toothed implement, so as not to disturb those little feeding rootlets of the orohard. The orchard should have all the dead limbs taken ont, and tops thinned, so as to admit of the free circulation of air through them, The limbs shonld be cat olose so they will soon heal over, but not close enough to Injure the bark of the body or other limbs. It should be tilled annually or sown to olover and the clover turned under as shallow as possible, keeping in mind those little rootlets or feeders.— Don't turn in stock of any kind to tramp the soil hard, unless it is small pigs; they might eat up the falling fruit and destroy the worms, eto. If large limbs are to be removed they might be painted over white lead, so as keep the wood sound until healed over. You might just as well expect corn to make a crop in a grass sod as an orchard to bear a crop of nice fruit treated the same way. Hamilton Co. Jesse Cox. 3d Premium.--Twelve years ago I bought one of the most dilapidated little farms to be fonnd in Ihdiana; the orchard wag in a worse condition even than the fences and buildings, with the prunings of former years lying nnder the trees. My first work was to cut down and burn 11 old worthless cherry trees that never bore a quart of good cherries to the tree. Then I pruned the apple trees and burned up all the brush; the old and the new. When the fruiting season came I found several of the trees were seedling apples and absolutely worthless, not fit even for vinegar. Such of these that could be, were grafted, a few were cut down and burned. The orchard did not appear healthy. The foliage did not have the rioh green tint it should, and on some of the trees it wonld turn yellow, and begin to fall before the end of June. For three years one fine bodied tree bloomed bountifully, but bore only little scabby apples. One summer day, the former owner was walking with me ln the orchard, I re. marked to him that I was going to cut it down, and said I could not see why any one should let sneh a worthless tree stand so long. "Why, that is an early harvest apple, it used to bear fine frnit, but the early harvest wouldn't do any good any more In this country," he said. "If that is an early harvest tree and used to bear good fruit it shall do so again," I replied. I began feeding my hogs in the orchard, feeding heavily under the early harvest tree. The first year I conld see but little effect, but kept on feeding there. Then the foilage began to tane, a rich green hue, and ceased to turn yellow and fall in June; the apples grew to their wonted size, perfect In every respect, and not a scabby apple to be found on the tree. The only fault I now find with the tree Is lt bears too heavily, and almost every year. Cut out all dead brandies; cut down all worthless trees; burn everything up and feed the hogs in the orchard, Marshall Co. Wm. It. D. In '93 we came in possession of an old orohard, which upon first thought we oonoluded to sow down in blue and make a permanent pasture of lt, regardless of fruit or trees. But on examining more olosely we found there were 25 old trees that were sound and that might with proper culture bs made to furnish us all the apples we would need. Among them are four Ben Davis, one Maiden Blush, two Vandevers, one Kambo and others equally as good. The first thing we did to renovate was to use the ax and saw without stint, outtlng and burning all faulty trees and limbs; also water sprouts and low limbs that would interfere in plowing close to trees. Any time when the sap is down it will do to trim. In the winter of '93 wo commenced to manure thoroughly, especially around the trees while ground is frozen. Then tho winter of '91 and '95 we fed hogs and cattle in it when not Bolt. In the spring of '95 we took out a partition fence between it and the adjoining field, and planted in corn and sowed in rye, and last spring In clover and timothy, so it is in clover at present. By the way we have manured around the tTees every winter with fresh stable mannre, this year have left four trees without manure to see If we could tell any difference. Will say that for two years we have had more nice fruit than could make use of. Had all we oould use all last winter. T. M. S. Madison Co. apple orchard and put nothing back, ln the shape of fertllitv, and reap a paying harvest. If we feed our trees they will feed uf, and vice versa. But the prloe of good, sound fruit, and enough of it, from this time on is "eternal vigllanoe." Putnam Co. H. S. Blatoiilev. To renovate an old orchard the first thing is to get all the old worthless trees cut down and burn them, and as the old orchard goes down there should be a good location picked out somewhere else on the farm and good yonng trees set out. I don't think it is of muoh use to set young trees In an old orchard, for they are sure to be neglected and not cultivated as they should be, I think lhat an orchard to be profitable shonld be kept well trimmed, manur.d and cultivated. I believe that manure is better for an orohard than fertilizer, because I think lt contains more of the elements suitable for an orchard than any one kind of fertilizer. An orchard shonld not be left so long as to require what I call renovation,but lt should have eome attention every year and more often, if needed. If large limbs get split down any way, I think they should be entirely severed from the tree immediately and not left hanging in the tree as so many people dountilspring when they clean up the orchard. David. The way I proceed is something like this: Remove carefully all dead branches and thin out the top sufficiently to let in the sun and air. Scrape the body of the treo and the main branches with a long- handed hoe and then remove all dead bark and moss. Apply a wash of diluted softsoap, or else give the trees a coating ot limewash. If I cultivate or plow under the trees I do lt shallow, so as not to break or disturb the root. Haul in all the ashes bath bleached and unbleached to be had, and then mulch the trees so far out as the limbs extend with old rotten straw, corn-stalks, coarse mannre, leaves from woods, or anything that will shade the gronnd and conserve moisture and prevent evaporation. This mulch is a benefit in various ways, the fruit hangs on better, is of much better quality, and it keeps the frnit from bruising as it falls from the tree; and as it decays it enriches the ground and gives new life, energy, vitality, and productions. Then spray the trees thoroughly some two or three limes, and thin tbe fruit where lt needs it, and you will be astonished at the result. The day is past when here ln Indiana we can take everything off an Cultivate every year; apply a heavy dressing of stablo manure in the fall if level; but if rolling, as early ln spring as possible, and turn under. X. Y. I bought my first fruit trees ln 1862 One hundred trees, two years old, 00 winter, 20 summor, and 20 fall varieties. Trees were somewhat neglected for want of pruning and cultivation, as several of the nursery hands had enlisted ln the army. I planted the trees on new, fresh, cleared, white oak land and headed tbem ln low down, making them short bodied and spready tops; cultivated them well for seven years, and was rewarded with abundant crops of fruit for three or four years. Seeded the orohard down to clover and It soon became a stiff sod of blue grasB, rod-top and timothy. Then my orchard began to fall in fruit, and my treea began to die, here and there, ovor tho orchard. I never Raftered stock of any kind In the orchard at any time, and as my apple crop gradually failed and several fine largo trees died, I concluded to re-aet with pear trees, sotting them 10 feet apart, leaving a few old apple trees, expecting them to die soon. But when I began to cultivate and prepare the ground for the pear trees, the old apple trees began to take on new life and bear more fruit and look more healthy. And now that portion of the orchard is entirely too thick to do well. The now points in the renovation of orchards are continued cultivation and proper fertilization. It ls folly to buy good trees and fall to take proper care of them and expect remunerative crops, and retain healthy, vigorous trees. The proper renovation of orchards is to buy first-class stock of responsible nurserymen, take proper care in planting out, pruning, cultivating, fertilizing, spraying and keeping insect pests and the much talked of fungns diseases from the trees by a better care of them. Jackson Co. D. M. Lett. The surest and best way to renovate an old orohard is|to pick a suitable location somewhero else on the farm for the young trees and let the old orchard stand to Itself. The dead trees should be cut out and the green, sound trees should be oared for as long as they are profitable. Young trees when set In an old orohard generally die in a few years. AH the nutrition that Is required for the growth of the tree has been absorbed by the old trees. There are but few old orchards In these parts that are not worn out long before the trees are all dead. We should manure and fertilize our orchards just as we do our other crops, If we expeot large, nice fruit and plenty of it. For the flrst few years we might raise a few crops of corn as we cultivate the orchard, or a few rows of strawberries or raspberries. Peach trees can be set between the apple trees, and till the apple trees come into bearing most ofthe peach trees will be out of the way. When the trees have commenced bearing sow oow peas or crimson clover ana let lt rot on the ground. We cannot take a crop of hay from the orchard every year and expect to get a crop of apples too. Apple trees should be set at least 35 feet apart; 40 ls better. W. B. Corydon. If the trees stand too closely together, as they may be found to do after they Continued an ISth page. |
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