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VOL. XXXIL INDIANAPOLIS. IND.. APRIL 10, 1897. NO. 15 EXPERIENCE DEPARTMENT THE BEST FENCE POST. How to Preserve it. 1st Premium.—The best general purpose fence post is the Tennessee dead red cedar post. Why? Becanse it possesses the quality ot dnrability to such an extent that nothing is required to preserve it, and also because it can be procured at reasonable cost, without delay, and delivered to any railway station in Indiana Thus delivered in carload lots, the cost per post will be abont 18 cents ln the Central and Southern parts of the State. Neither the catalpa, nor the locust post can enter into this discussion, for the simple reason that none are to be found in the market. The cast-iron post is too easily fractured, and one made of wrought iron of proper size to seoure firmness is to expensive for the farmer, to say nothing of the rapid and destructive process of oxidation. It is the heart of the red cedar, the red part, the.part.of .which the best lead pencils are made, that so obstinately resists the process of decay, whether in the ground as a post, or out of it as a fence or a shingle. The writer has seen in Middle Tennessee rails and shingles made of this partof the tree whioh have been in service, either in fence or roof, for a period ot time extending beyond seventy years and which, after shaving the surface, still presents the characteristic color and odor of ths wood- In Indianapolis, on Market street, within two squares of the postoffice can be seen red cedar fence posts, still in superb condition, which have been in the ground for over 30 years. A sample cut from one of these posts has been secured and forwarded to the Indiana Fabmeb ; it is six inches in length, three inches of which were aboye and three below the surface of the ground. It furnishes a beautiful illustration and convinolng argument in favor of the lasting qualities of the timber. The dead post, as it is called by dealers, is more desirable than the green because it is entirely free from bark and sap-wood, is much lighter because thoroughly seasoned, and the freight, therefore, less. (Millions of dead cedar trees are found in the mountains killed either by the lire or storm.) For a wire fenco these posts are set 28 ieet apart, that is to say for the kind of a fence the writer has had constructed on his farm in Greene county, and which bas cost abont 25 cents per rod, including material and labor. (Many place them lour rods apart. Ed) The limits of this article, however, pre. elude any details in the matter of fence construction, for while the writer may bave very decided views in regard to which is the |best fence for the farmer, tbis is neither the time nor the place to express them. After two visits to Tennessee and Northern Alabama in search of information, the above has been written, not 'or a prize, but in fulfillment of a promise made to Mr. Collins in the Fabmeb of December 12th last, and with the hope that the experience given maybe of some value to farmers. John M. Kitchen. Indianapolis. red cedar sawed posts that have been in use for 24 years, with soarcely any signs of decay. Also some oak posts made from a dead tree that had stood until the bark had fallen oft, which have been ln for 24 years, but part of them have rotted oft. It has often been said that posts set top end down would last longer than when set butt end down. About 20 years ago I set some oak posts putting part of them top down and part butt down. They were examined to-day bnt no difference could be noticed. In the past ten years I have planted abont 300 locust trees. Some of them are large enough to make two and three posts each. W. H. Lafusk. Union Co. 21 Premium.—Black locust and osage orange are probably the most durable Poat timbers grown in Indiana. I do not know which will last the longer. I think tbey are like the Dutchman's posts, "he 8»ld he knew they last forever pecanse he Wed him tree times." I would give preference to the locust because it ls easier and quioker grown, and is straighter and •aore desirable in many ways. Mulberry w"l last well. Some posts out from umbs three to four Inches In diameter *nd set 23 years ago, are yet sound. I have 3d Premium.—I have tried and have seen tried locust, mulberry, ash, red elm, white and black walnut, red, white and burr oak and cedar fence posts. Asb, red elm, white and black walnut and red oak do not last long enough to justify using them, three to five years being the limit. Locust and mulberry are not plentiful enongh to use; white and burr oak are nsed a great deal, but their cost, compared with their durability, makes them too expensive. I have seen them tarred and charred, seasoned and set in gravel and but very little if anything gained in durability. So in my estimation cedar posts, peeled and dry, four inches at top end, seven feet fonr, at 10K cents each, at which price they can be bought nearly any place in Indiana, is by far the cheapest post we can use. We all know they are very durable, but very little if any more expensive than oak, always straight, light and easy to handle. A fence built of cedar posts and the keystone or woven wire fences, of which we have so many kinds, properly fastened to these posts, will laat _ longer and be cheaper than any other fence that I know of. I am aware that many dealers ask enormous prices for cedar posts'and are ready to condemn anything offered cheaper than their price. But anything more than 10_ _ cents asked by any dealer is that much more than he should ask. I have no fence posts to sell. Carroll Co. Wm. H. Peffley. Mulberry posts that have been well seasoned before setting are splendid, but it is of no use to talk about mulberry posts, for there couldn't be enough of that kind found to fence a garden. So I guess we will have to settle oh well seasoned white oak posts for they are used the most of any kind we have, but there is no use of setting posts green for it is just a waste of time. Post timber shonld be cut in the winter when "the sbp is down," split and stacked np to season and let season one year or eight months, but they should not be put in the ground sooner than this. In planting posts, if the holes are to be dug, my experience has been to have them dug about 15 or 18 inches across, set the post and tramp in rocks around the post to make it solid; don't put dirt on top or the post will rot oft at the top of the ground, but I believe it is as good to sharpen the posts about six or eight inches and piok a wet time and drive them, it can be done so much quicker than to set them and they will last better than set posts that are tamped in with dirt. O.N.T. The best timber in this seotion of Indl ana is white oak. Seleot a tree that is not brash. Split as soon as post is out. Take the bark off clean. Stook up one tier nntil well seasoned. Then make a fire, lay the posts on and let them burn nntil the outside is in a coal turning them over frequently so they will char all around alike and a Htjle above where the top of the ground will come. I have posts treated in this way that were set 20 years ago, and are still holding up a board fence in pretty good shape. Warsaw. J. W. H. Cut white or burr oak timber for posts in winter when free of sap. Make logs 15 feet long, and haul to mill. Then saw in two, and have posts sawed four inches square at base and four inches wide by two inches thick at top. Rick and stick posts to dry till fall. Then make tank eight feet long, three feet wide and two feet deep, out of two inch boards, cutting gains on sides for the ends and securing same with two oross rods at either end. Make bottom of galvanized iron secured by two rows of small nails, and allow ends of iron to lap and turn up at ends of box. Construot narrow furnace the length of box,placlng rods of iron«cross furnace and place box on the same. Procure barrel of coal tar, obtained at gas factory for $2, empty it in tank and start small fire in furnace. Care should be used not to have too much fire as coal tar is quite volatile when heated and takes fire easily. Now with two pairs of tongs made like ice hooks bnt with longer handles and hand-hold on them, lift posts into tank ot hot coal tar. Allow them to remain a short time, lift out and roll them as removed in a pile of line, dry, clean sand previously hauled and spread on the ground conveniently. After drying awhile this process may be repeated, when a post is obtained that will last 30 years. Cost of treating 1 000 posts about $10. Box comes handy to mix slop in during summer, and as a scalding tub at hog-killing there is nothing better. Putnam Co. J. B. Bubbis. The best fence post and one that I can recommend from practical experience, Is one inch gas pipe (black pipe.) Its advantages over other kinds are: First cheapness and dnrability.. Seoond, strength and firmness in place. Third, that it settles down to its original depth after the frost leaves the ground in the spring. They can be bought at wholesale for 3 cents per foot, perhaps for less just now, while the prices of iron and steel are low. I bought 100 four years ago for $16 50, freight 72 cents, cost per post, 17 22 cents. Two years i previous to this I bought my flrst lot (20). They show no decay so far after six years use. They stand firmer than any other post on the farm. I buy them already cut in six foot lengths. I punched holes in them myself. 1 use No. 16 soft wire to tie fence wire to post. I bore holes to set the posts; this prevents dirt filling the lower end and gives good drainage. The air inside the post is always warmer than outside and abovo ground. This higher temperature inside and below the surface causes it to thaw loose from the soil quioker. Then the weight and tension of the wires above causes it to settle at once. The same cause, with drainage addod, accounts for the soil drying out and firming around this post quioker than other kinds of posts. Cedar posts are the best wood posts. All so-called preservatives of wood posts, to my personal knowlege have proved a failure. Sycamore Farm. James Haslet. As to the durability*of fence posts this depends first upon the kind of timber used. Second on the manner in which it is used. My father had a garden fence set with blaok locust posts five or six inches in diameter. They were cut from saplings and were not split. They were cut season before they were set. This was about 30 years ago, and half of the posts are there yet. If black locust posts could be had I would use no other. Post material is getting scarce in this country. There are a few oaks left yet. I believe it would be a gtsod plan for every farmer to set ont an acre or two in black locusts for posts in future years. Tf we do not get the benefit of it the next generation will. White oak and red cedar also make good posts, bnt no kind of timber should be used green. You had better do without a fence for a year and let the timber season. White oak posts seasoned and dipped in petroleum, and then dip the end which is to go in the ground in coal tar and they will last 14 or 15 years. Some set posts by tamping rock around them. This is a very good plan if you do not put dirt on top of tbem, but God help the man that has to reset them. I think it a good plan to set posts with top end down. Harrison Co. N B. In reply to your favor of February 25th I would say that so far as I know catalpa lasts best as posts. The stockade of the old fort at Vincennes is said to have been built of this material and portions of it are still standing. I suppose the posts last in proportion to the capacity of the wood to resist the attacks of the organisms which cause oxidation and decay of the tissues of the wood. The general nature of the change is some type of oxidation. The general praotlce of using seasoned posts is doubtless a good one, but I presume in the case referred to ab-ve,the posts were green. [Prof. Huston does not compete for a premium.—Ed.1] H. A, Huston, Purdue University. Chemist. There are several good fence posts, such as iron and stone and the durable woods such as red cedar, black locust and the catalpa. Bat for durability and cheapness there is nothing equal to a post made of cement, sand and iron. The base is composed of sharp coarse sand and cement. The top may be of gas pipe of I.i inch in diameter or larger if desired,and as high as you want. Sneh a post can be made on any farm by any one and at any time as suits your convenience. A little coal or gas tar applied to the iron tops will in a measure preserve the same. . K. B. Webster. Madison Co. Mulberry and Osage Orange. Have them w«ll seasoned and either cleaned or washed with coal tar from bottom to four/inches above ground. Burr-oak, blaok locust, white oak and white walnut, if split, seasoned, and treated as above are all good. The mulberry and orange, however, are the best timbers growing in this locality. T. K. C. Graysville. \ ,v I think the best fence timber is pin- oak.. I prefer posts split I set them green lor they will last as long again as posts that are seasoned before they are set. Gravel should be put around the post, about six Inches deep at the surface of the ground. The. gravel prevents the pos t from rotting at th. top of the ground. By all means never season your posts before setting them. Hamilton Co. Fbanklin M. Ra*_ye. The best fence post is the one that will last the longest And the one that will last the longest is the one that ls naturally tbe dryest wood or the one that contains the least sap. The dryer the wood or the less sap it contains the longer it will last In the ground. We might mention walnut, oak, sss-afras, locust and others as dry timber and all make a good post while such timber as beech, sycamore ect, will not last in the ground on account of their sappy nature. The most common post is the white oak, but the walnut or sassafras is probably still better, if a person has them, and if not the white oak is my next best. Timber for posts or anything to last, should be cut In the winter season when there is the least sap in it. I mostly use a split white oak post because the timber is the most plentiful with me and will probably last the seoond or third best of any timber I could get. I like a post about five inches square. It comes, natural forme to put the big end of a post down let it be the top or butt and I think where they are set in this way the fence looks muoh neater and Concluded on Oth page.
Object Description
Title | Indiana farmer, 1897, v. 32, no. 15 (Apr. 10) |
Purdue Identification Number | INFA3215 |
Date of Original | 1897 |
Subjects (LCSH) |
Agriculture Farm management Horticulture Agricultural machinery |
Subjects (NALT) |
agriculture farm management horticulture agricultural machinery and equipment |
Genre | Periodical |
Call Number of Original | 630.5 In2 |
Location of Original | Hicks Repository |
Coverage | United States - Indiana |
Type | text |
Format | JP2 |
Language | eng |
Collection Title | Indiana Farmer |
Rights Statement | Content in the Indiana Farmer Collection is in the public domain (published before 1923) or lacks a known copyright holder. Digital images in the collection may be used for educational, non-commercial, or not-for-profit purposes. |
Repository | Purdue University Libraries |
Date Digitized | 2011-01-24 |
Digitization Information | Original scanned at 300 ppi on a Bookeye 3 scanner using internal software. Display images generated in CONTENTdm as JP2000s; file format for archival copy is uncompressed TIF format. |
Description
Title | Page 1 |
Subjects (LCSH) |
Agriculture Farm management Horticulture Agricultural machinery |
Subjects (NALT) |
agriculture farm management horticulture agricultural machinery and equipment |
Genre | Periodical |
Call Number of Original | 630.5 In2 |
Location of Original | Hicks Repository |
Coverage | Indiana |
Type | text |
Format | JP2 |
Language | eng |
Collection Title | Indiana Farmer |
Rights Statement | Content in the Indiana Farmer Collection is in the public domain (published before 1923) or lacks a known copyright holder. Digital images in the collection may be used for educational, non-commercial, or non-for-profit purposes. |
Repository | Purdue University Libraries |
Digitization Information | Orignal scanned at 300 ppi on a Bookeye 3 scanner using internal software. Display images generated in CONTENTdm as JP2000s; file format for archival copy is uncompressed TIF format. |
Transcript | VOL. XXXIL INDIANAPOLIS. IND.. APRIL 10, 1897. NO. 15 EXPERIENCE DEPARTMENT THE BEST FENCE POST. How to Preserve it. 1st Premium.—The best general purpose fence post is the Tennessee dead red cedar post. Why? Becanse it possesses the quality ot dnrability to such an extent that nothing is required to preserve it, and also because it can be procured at reasonable cost, without delay, and delivered to any railway station in Indiana Thus delivered in carload lots, the cost per post will be abont 18 cents ln the Central and Southern parts of the State. Neither the catalpa, nor the locust post can enter into this discussion, for the simple reason that none are to be found in the market. The cast-iron post is too easily fractured, and one made of wrought iron of proper size to seoure firmness is to expensive for the farmer, to say nothing of the rapid and destructive process of oxidation. It is the heart of the red cedar, the red part, the.part.of .which the best lead pencils are made, that so obstinately resists the process of decay, whether in the ground as a post, or out of it as a fence or a shingle. The writer has seen in Middle Tennessee rails and shingles made of this partof the tree whioh have been in service, either in fence or roof, for a period ot time extending beyond seventy years and which, after shaving the surface, still presents the characteristic color and odor of ths wood- In Indianapolis, on Market street, within two squares of the postoffice can be seen red cedar fence posts, still in superb condition, which have been in the ground for over 30 years. A sample cut from one of these posts has been secured and forwarded to the Indiana Fabmeb ; it is six inches in length, three inches of which were aboye and three below the surface of the ground. It furnishes a beautiful illustration and convinolng argument in favor of the lasting qualities of the timber. The dead post, as it is called by dealers, is more desirable than the green because it is entirely free from bark and sap-wood, is much lighter because thoroughly seasoned, and the freight, therefore, less. (Millions of dead cedar trees are found in the mountains killed either by the lire or storm.) For a wire fenco these posts are set 28 ieet apart, that is to say for the kind of a fence the writer has had constructed on his farm in Greene county, and which bas cost abont 25 cents per rod, including material and labor. (Many place them lour rods apart. Ed) The limits of this article, however, pre. elude any details in the matter of fence construction, for while the writer may bave very decided views in regard to which is the |best fence for the farmer, tbis is neither the time nor the place to express them. After two visits to Tennessee and Northern Alabama in search of information, the above has been written, not 'or a prize, but in fulfillment of a promise made to Mr. Collins in the Fabmeb of December 12th last, and with the hope that the experience given maybe of some value to farmers. John M. Kitchen. Indianapolis. red cedar sawed posts that have been in use for 24 years, with soarcely any signs of decay. Also some oak posts made from a dead tree that had stood until the bark had fallen oft, which have been ln for 24 years, but part of them have rotted oft. It has often been said that posts set top end down would last longer than when set butt end down. About 20 years ago I set some oak posts putting part of them top down and part butt down. They were examined to-day bnt no difference could be noticed. In the past ten years I have planted abont 300 locust trees. Some of them are large enough to make two and three posts each. W. H. Lafusk. Union Co. 21 Premium.—Black locust and osage orange are probably the most durable Poat timbers grown in Indiana. I do not know which will last the longer. I think tbey are like the Dutchman's posts, "he 8»ld he knew they last forever pecanse he Wed him tree times." I would give preference to the locust because it ls easier and quioker grown, and is straighter and •aore desirable in many ways. Mulberry w"l last well. Some posts out from umbs three to four Inches In diameter *nd set 23 years ago, are yet sound. I have 3d Premium.—I have tried and have seen tried locust, mulberry, ash, red elm, white and black walnut, red, white and burr oak and cedar fence posts. Asb, red elm, white and black walnut and red oak do not last long enough to justify using them, three to five years being the limit. Locust and mulberry are not plentiful enongh to use; white and burr oak are nsed a great deal, but their cost, compared with their durability, makes them too expensive. I have seen them tarred and charred, seasoned and set in gravel and but very little if anything gained in durability. So in my estimation cedar posts, peeled and dry, four inches at top end, seven feet fonr, at 10K cents each, at which price they can be bought nearly any place in Indiana, is by far the cheapest post we can use. We all know they are very durable, but very little if any more expensive than oak, always straight, light and easy to handle. A fence built of cedar posts and the keystone or woven wire fences, of which we have so many kinds, properly fastened to these posts, will laat _ longer and be cheaper than any other fence that I know of. I am aware that many dealers ask enormous prices for cedar posts'and are ready to condemn anything offered cheaper than their price. But anything more than 10_ _ cents asked by any dealer is that much more than he should ask. I have no fence posts to sell. Carroll Co. Wm. H. Peffley. Mulberry posts that have been well seasoned before setting are splendid, but it is of no use to talk about mulberry posts, for there couldn't be enough of that kind found to fence a garden. So I guess we will have to settle oh well seasoned white oak posts for they are used the most of any kind we have, but there is no use of setting posts green for it is just a waste of time. Post timber shonld be cut in the winter when "the sbp is down," split and stacked np to season and let season one year or eight months, but they should not be put in the ground sooner than this. In planting posts, if the holes are to be dug, my experience has been to have them dug about 15 or 18 inches across, set the post and tramp in rocks around the post to make it solid; don't put dirt on top or the post will rot oft at the top of the ground, but I believe it is as good to sharpen the posts about six or eight inches and piok a wet time and drive them, it can be done so much quicker than to set them and they will last better than set posts that are tamped in with dirt. O.N.T. The best timber in this seotion of Indl ana is white oak. Seleot a tree that is not brash. Split as soon as post is out. Take the bark off clean. Stook up one tier nntil well seasoned. Then make a fire, lay the posts on and let them burn nntil the outside is in a coal turning them over frequently so they will char all around alike and a Htjle above where the top of the ground will come. I have posts treated in this way that were set 20 years ago, and are still holding up a board fence in pretty good shape. Warsaw. J. W. H. Cut white or burr oak timber for posts in winter when free of sap. Make logs 15 feet long, and haul to mill. Then saw in two, and have posts sawed four inches square at base and four inches wide by two inches thick at top. Rick and stick posts to dry till fall. Then make tank eight feet long, three feet wide and two feet deep, out of two inch boards, cutting gains on sides for the ends and securing same with two oross rods at either end. Make bottom of galvanized iron secured by two rows of small nails, and allow ends of iron to lap and turn up at ends of box. Construot narrow furnace the length of box,placlng rods of iron«cross furnace and place box on the same. Procure barrel of coal tar, obtained at gas factory for $2, empty it in tank and start small fire in furnace. Care should be used not to have too much fire as coal tar is quite volatile when heated and takes fire easily. Now with two pairs of tongs made like ice hooks bnt with longer handles and hand-hold on them, lift posts into tank ot hot coal tar. Allow them to remain a short time, lift out and roll them as removed in a pile of line, dry, clean sand previously hauled and spread on the ground conveniently. After drying awhile this process may be repeated, when a post is obtained that will last 30 years. Cost of treating 1 000 posts about $10. Box comes handy to mix slop in during summer, and as a scalding tub at hog-killing there is nothing better. Putnam Co. J. B. Bubbis. The best fence post and one that I can recommend from practical experience, Is one inch gas pipe (black pipe.) Its advantages over other kinds are: First cheapness and dnrability.. Seoond, strength and firmness in place. Third, that it settles down to its original depth after the frost leaves the ground in the spring. They can be bought at wholesale for 3 cents per foot, perhaps for less just now, while the prices of iron and steel are low. I bought 100 four years ago for $16 50, freight 72 cents, cost per post, 17 22 cents. Two years i previous to this I bought my flrst lot (20). They show no decay so far after six years use. They stand firmer than any other post on the farm. I buy them already cut in six foot lengths. I punched holes in them myself. 1 use No. 16 soft wire to tie fence wire to post. I bore holes to set the posts; this prevents dirt filling the lower end and gives good drainage. The air inside the post is always warmer than outside and abovo ground. This higher temperature inside and below the surface causes it to thaw loose from the soil quioker. Then the weight and tension of the wires above causes it to settle at once. The same cause, with drainage addod, accounts for the soil drying out and firming around this post quioker than other kinds of posts. Cedar posts are the best wood posts. All so-called preservatives of wood posts, to my personal knowlege have proved a failure. Sycamore Farm. James Haslet. As to the durability*of fence posts this depends first upon the kind of timber used. Second on the manner in which it is used. My father had a garden fence set with blaok locust posts five or six inches in diameter. They were cut from saplings and were not split. They were cut season before they were set. This was about 30 years ago, and half of the posts are there yet. If black locust posts could be had I would use no other. Post material is getting scarce in this country. There are a few oaks left yet. I believe it would be a gtsod plan for every farmer to set ont an acre or two in black locusts for posts in future years. Tf we do not get the benefit of it the next generation will. White oak and red cedar also make good posts, bnt no kind of timber should be used green. You had better do without a fence for a year and let the timber season. White oak posts seasoned and dipped in petroleum, and then dip the end which is to go in the ground in coal tar and they will last 14 or 15 years. Some set posts by tamping rock around them. This is a very good plan if you do not put dirt on top of tbem, but God help the man that has to reset them. I think it a good plan to set posts with top end down. Harrison Co. N B. In reply to your favor of February 25th I would say that so far as I know catalpa lasts best as posts. The stockade of the old fort at Vincennes is said to have been built of this material and portions of it are still standing. I suppose the posts last in proportion to the capacity of the wood to resist the attacks of the organisms which cause oxidation and decay of the tissues of the wood. The general nature of the change is some type of oxidation. The general praotlce of using seasoned posts is doubtless a good one, but I presume in the case referred to ab-ve,the posts were green. [Prof. Huston does not compete for a premium.—Ed.1] H. A, Huston, Purdue University. Chemist. There are several good fence posts, such as iron and stone and the durable woods such as red cedar, black locust and the catalpa. Bat for durability and cheapness there is nothing equal to a post made of cement, sand and iron. The base is composed of sharp coarse sand and cement. The top may be of gas pipe of I.i inch in diameter or larger if desired,and as high as you want. Sneh a post can be made on any farm by any one and at any time as suits your convenience. A little coal or gas tar applied to the iron tops will in a measure preserve the same. . K. B. Webster. Madison Co. Mulberry and Osage Orange. Have them w«ll seasoned and either cleaned or washed with coal tar from bottom to four/inches above ground. Burr-oak, blaok locust, white oak and white walnut, if split, seasoned, and treated as above are all good. The mulberry and orange, however, are the best timbers growing in this locality. T. K. C. Graysville. \ ,v I think the best fence timber is pin- oak.. I prefer posts split I set them green lor they will last as long again as posts that are seasoned before they are set. Gravel should be put around the post, about six Inches deep at the surface of the ground. The. gravel prevents the pos t from rotting at th. top of the ground. By all means never season your posts before setting them. Hamilton Co. Fbanklin M. Ra*_ye. The best fence post is the one that will last the longest And the one that will last the longest is the one that ls naturally tbe dryest wood or the one that contains the least sap. The dryer the wood or the less sap it contains the longer it will last In the ground. We might mention walnut, oak, sss-afras, locust and others as dry timber and all make a good post while such timber as beech, sycamore ect, will not last in the ground on account of their sappy nature. The most common post is the white oak, but the walnut or sassafras is probably still better, if a person has them, and if not the white oak is my next best. Timber for posts or anything to last, should be cut In the winter season when there is the least sap in it. I mostly use a split white oak post because the timber is the most plentiful with me and will probably last the seoond or third best of any timber I could get. I like a post about five inches square. It comes, natural forme to put the big end of a post down let it be the top or butt and I think where they are set in this way the fence looks muoh neater and Concluded on Oth page. |
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