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Xj? L\ Barn Plans Editors Indiana Farmer: Tho time has come on the account of en- silage coming in general use, that people want to build barns that will hold lots of cattle instead of hogs and fodder, and as I have never yet seen a plan of a barn published which has handy and good places to build silos, I will through the kindness of the editor of the Indiana Farmer give you what I think is a good plan, and at the same time you will catch the idoa of description of cow stable given by Mr. Mc- Calmont in the issue of 8th inst, which is a very neat and clean way of keeping milk cows. This barn is intended to be 5Gx84 feet which is the measurement on the outside and includes cow shed. This will hold 48 head of milk cows and give each one individual stall room three feet and two inches wide or would hold more if stables are left out. The mow side from ground up, a part over drive floor from silos to door and space over cows in shed on high side will hold about 54 tons of hay. Three silos 16x14 measured on outside will hold enough ensilage to feed 48 head of cattle about six months by giving 50 pounds per day to each cow, if built from six or eight inches above ground level up to roof. I have been figuring on a barn 18 feet to top of side posts; if barn is built 20 feet high of course you could put in more hay and ensilage—(I believe I would advise building 20 feet instead otl8). My aim in making barn in this shape is so that it can be made larger or smaller posts and nail solid; this will keep posts from spreading or giving at the corners. After boards are put on in this way put on paper then seal (by running boards up.and down) with ilooring lumber dressed on one sido, tongue and grooved and not over four inches wide, in this manner you will have about as good a silo as you will want. You will seo by cut that you will not Nona and still give about the same proportion of feed without changing building only in length, which can be done by putting in one or two more sets of posts fourteen feet apart and adding another silo or two, or taking out set of posts. My object in leaving hay mow side without floor was to accommodate you if you wish to build more silos. You will see that posts are about the right distance apart to build a silo between eacji set without much trouble as you will only have to build a solid foundation under sills. Break * stone up inside of space to the depth of six or eight inches and then cement bottom and sides. This gets you all ready for studding which must be put in on sill and run up under plate girders, or braces can be sawed out of wood of studding and if any bracing is needed it can be done between studding. If you think you are likely to build more silos it would be a good idea to put boards on outside of studding next to cow shed right at the start for the purpose; run boards on across studding which may be rough and cheap, then your tarred paper and then the outside boards up and down same as rest of barn. I will say right here, that if you will send to Smalley Manufacturing Company of Manitowoc, Wis., I think they will furnish you a book on silos written by A. J. Cook, also books on ensilage machinery, which will give you a good description and tell you how to build silos. I might add though that a good plan to build up the inside of silos is to begin at bottom, put on rough boards across studding and run every otlier board out even with outer edge of corner along tho sides to waste and rot your barn. Mi* idea is to put tho manure in a box, reach up to rope and pull it out, dump it as far from barn as you wish and bring the box back without moving from your placo of shoveling. I will give you as near as I can my idea by a few cuts. I will describe after giving plan of barn, which is as follows: have to go out of doors to do any of your feeding. Hay can be put down from almost any place in tho barn, and ensilage will not bo hard to get at (silo openings should be run from top down to drive floor) drive floor does not have plates below top cross plates, but if a part is to be Pig. 1 represents end view showing foundation and timbers about as they should be, other end should be just tho samo, but next tier of timbers should be back of this 14 feet and the next the same distance, and so on, in these you will not need timbers marked a. You can add a sills to support one e»d of. lloor in cow stable; c is four oak sills 5x0 inches put up edgewise on broken stone and cement with about one inch of cement in bottom to form the manure trough 18 inches wide and six or seven inches deep, one end of floor is nailed to these. It would be well to put in a double lloor of inch oak boards and break joints. I-'eed floors will be over c by tl in shed stable and over b by d on otlier side; / is hay mow* running to ground; g is drive way; h is cow stables; long straight line under sills is to show comparative slant of floors in cow stables. Fig. o will givo somo idea of looks of barn floor, square black spots show whero posts go on sills; a is stalls; h space back of stalls for ditch and passage ways; c a few joists across drive way; d a few boards down for floor show that they run lengthwise; <■ is haymow with timbers lying on ground, with boards laid across to keep hay oil' of ground; / passage way from main lloor to feeding alley in shed; g is alley and feed floor in cow shed; h ground lloor of three silos 10x14 on outside; i is four stable doors and the two large doors. Fig. 4 is a high corner view of barn, which will not be changed much by making barn shorter or longer. Low cow shed can bo left oil" in this stable if only half tho number of cows are kept, and in this case barn need not be so high as where both stables are used now for the manure carrier. Fig. 5 shows you a section of track and apair of pulley blocks fastened together by a hook and each end of a rope fastening on to end of pulleys. In order to put this track used run cross pieces from one side to the other from front doors back toward silos as far as you want to go. In storing drive in from back door, stop before you get to mow, then unload and can then get under mow and drive out front door, by doing this way you can havo your mow floor few 2x0 pieces to this to stiffen boards where needed. Rafters should be 2x0 inches and 10 inches apart, long rafters can be divided on' plate by letting them lap up beside ono another just a short space over plate. Fig. 2 shows end of sills and floor just lower than if you had to drive under with load on wagon. I have added to this barn a way to get back of front sill in (Fig. 1.) a is sides of barn; b is the live man sills; c four narrow sills or joists to support floor in cow manure out without throwing it out all stable; dis 2x0 inch pieces spiked on to NSl'l up, nail a 2x1 scantling on under side just over stables, then nail or screw on to it hook bucket (Fig. 0) on to hook on pulley, your rope is to be a belt rope and runs out over pulley on end of trestle (Fig") and back to another pulley fixed up in other of barn. You are now ready to run manure out, this trestle is connected to your track in the barn by scantling running to it out near upper corner of door which in order to shut the door must be fixed so that it can bo taken out like a bar. Trestle can be arranged to run m-fture up and as far out as you want it. When bucket is near end of dump the bucket will come up against an iron rod running from one leg of trestle to other then slide up till hooks on sides catch, when it will turn over and opposite side will stop on shelf, run out to catch iron ears on top corner of bucket, this will dump, now as bucket is dumped you can pull on the rope in the opposite way from what you did to run it out and bucket will return to you. (Fig. 7.) Trestle is made by laying 2x4 scantling on edge about 10 inches apart, then nailing cross pieces on every four or five feet to hold them together. Legs aro put on to outside edge of outside scantling, center scantling is to fasten track to, on the trestle, by running them up and away from the barn you can dump manure as high and as far away from barn as you like. J. M. Noble. Moore's Hill. A fat office: That of Minister to (Jreece. A cold is like a horse-car: You can easily catch it when j ou don't want to. Subscribe for the Indiana Farmer,
Object Description
Title | Indiana farmer, 1890, v. 25, no. 15 (Apr. 12) |
Purdue Identification Number | INFA2515 |
Date of Original | 1890 |
Subjects (LCSH) |
Agriculture Farm management Horticulture Agricultural machinery |
Subjects (NALT) |
agriculture farm management horticulture agricultural machinery and equipment |
Genre | Periodical |
Call Number of Original | 630.5 In2 |
Location of Original | Hicks Repository |
Coverage | United States - Indiana |
Type | text |
Format | JP2 |
Language | eng |
Collection Title | Indiana Farmer |
Rights Statement | Content in the Indiana Farmer Collection is in the public domain (published before 1923) or lacks a known copyright holder. Digital images in the collection may be used for educational, non-commercial, or not-for-profit purposes. |
Repository | Purdue University Libraries |
Date Digitized | 2011-01-20 |
Digitization Information | Original scanned at 300 ppi on a Bookeye 3 scanner using internal software. Display images generated in CONTENTdm as JP2000s; file format for archival copy is uncompressed TIF format. |
Description
Title | Page 1 |
Subjects (LCSH) |
Agriculture Farm management Horticulture Agricultural machinery |
Subjects (NALT) |
agriculture farm management horticulture agricultural machinery and equipment |
Genre | Periodical |
Call Number of Original | 630.5 In2 |
Location of Original | Hicks Repository |
Coverage | Indiana |
Type | text |
Format | JP2 |
Language | eng |
Collection Title | Indiana Farmer |
Rights Statement | Content in the Indiana Farmer Collection is in the public domain (published before 1923) or lacks a known copyright holder. Digital images in the collection may be used for educational, non-commercial, or non-for-profit purposes. |
Repository | Purdue University Libraries |
Digitization Information | Orignal scanned at 300 ppi on a Bookeye 3 scanner using internal software. Display images generated in CONTENTdm as JP2000s; file format for archival copy is uncompressed TIF format. |
Transcript | Xj? L\ Barn Plans Editors Indiana Farmer: Tho time has come on the account of en- silage coming in general use, that people want to build barns that will hold lots of cattle instead of hogs and fodder, and as I have never yet seen a plan of a barn published which has handy and good places to build silos, I will through the kindness of the editor of the Indiana Farmer give you what I think is a good plan, and at the same time you will catch the idoa of description of cow stable given by Mr. Mc- Calmont in the issue of 8th inst, which is a very neat and clean way of keeping milk cows. This barn is intended to be 5Gx84 feet which is the measurement on the outside and includes cow shed. This will hold 48 head of milk cows and give each one individual stall room three feet and two inches wide or would hold more if stables are left out. The mow side from ground up, a part over drive floor from silos to door and space over cows in shed on high side will hold about 54 tons of hay. Three silos 16x14 measured on outside will hold enough ensilage to feed 48 head of cattle about six months by giving 50 pounds per day to each cow, if built from six or eight inches above ground level up to roof. I have been figuring on a barn 18 feet to top of side posts; if barn is built 20 feet high of course you could put in more hay and ensilage—(I believe I would advise building 20 feet instead otl8). My aim in making barn in this shape is so that it can be made larger or smaller posts and nail solid; this will keep posts from spreading or giving at the corners. After boards are put on in this way put on paper then seal (by running boards up.and down) with ilooring lumber dressed on one sido, tongue and grooved and not over four inches wide, in this manner you will have about as good a silo as you will want. You will seo by cut that you will not Nona and still give about the same proportion of feed without changing building only in length, which can be done by putting in one or two more sets of posts fourteen feet apart and adding another silo or two, or taking out set of posts. My object in leaving hay mow side without floor was to accommodate you if you wish to build more silos. You will see that posts are about the right distance apart to build a silo between eacji set without much trouble as you will only have to build a solid foundation under sills. Break * stone up inside of space to the depth of six or eight inches and then cement bottom and sides. This gets you all ready for studding which must be put in on sill and run up under plate girders, or braces can be sawed out of wood of studding and if any bracing is needed it can be done between studding. If you think you are likely to build more silos it would be a good idea to put boards on outside of studding next to cow shed right at the start for the purpose; run boards on across studding which may be rough and cheap, then your tarred paper and then the outside boards up and down same as rest of barn. I will say right here, that if you will send to Smalley Manufacturing Company of Manitowoc, Wis., I think they will furnish you a book on silos written by A. J. Cook, also books on ensilage machinery, which will give you a good description and tell you how to build silos. I might add though that a good plan to build up the inside of silos is to begin at bottom, put on rough boards across studding and run every otlier board out even with outer edge of corner along tho sides to waste and rot your barn. Mi* idea is to put tho manure in a box, reach up to rope and pull it out, dump it as far from barn as you wish and bring the box back without moving from your placo of shoveling. I will give you as near as I can my idea by a few cuts. I will describe after giving plan of barn, which is as follows: have to go out of doors to do any of your feeding. Hay can be put down from almost any place in tho barn, and ensilage will not bo hard to get at (silo openings should be run from top down to drive floor) drive floor does not have plates below top cross plates, but if a part is to be Pig. 1 represents end view showing foundation and timbers about as they should be, other end should be just tho samo, but next tier of timbers should be back of this 14 feet and the next the same distance, and so on, in these you will not need timbers marked a. You can add a sills to support one e»d of. lloor in cow stable; c is four oak sills 5x0 inches put up edgewise on broken stone and cement with about one inch of cement in bottom to form the manure trough 18 inches wide and six or seven inches deep, one end of floor is nailed to these. It would be well to put in a double lloor of inch oak boards and break joints. I-'eed floors will be over c by tl in shed stable and over b by d on otlier side; / is hay mow* running to ground; g is drive way; h is cow stables; long straight line under sills is to show comparative slant of floors in cow stables. Fig. o will givo somo idea of looks of barn floor, square black spots show whero posts go on sills; a is stalls; h space back of stalls for ditch and passage ways; c a few joists across drive way; d a few boards down for floor show that they run lengthwise; <■ is haymow with timbers lying on ground, with boards laid across to keep hay oil' of ground; / passage way from main lloor to feeding alley in shed; g is alley and feed floor in cow shed; h ground lloor of three silos 10x14 on outside; i is four stable doors and the two large doors. Fig. 4 is a high corner view of barn, which will not be changed much by making barn shorter or longer. Low cow shed can bo left oil" in this stable if only half tho number of cows are kept, and in this case barn need not be so high as where both stables are used now for the manure carrier. Fig. 5 shows you a section of track and apair of pulley blocks fastened together by a hook and each end of a rope fastening on to end of pulleys. In order to put this track used run cross pieces from one side to the other from front doors back toward silos as far as you want to go. In storing drive in from back door, stop before you get to mow, then unload and can then get under mow and drive out front door, by doing this way you can havo your mow floor few 2x0 pieces to this to stiffen boards where needed. Rafters should be 2x0 inches and 10 inches apart, long rafters can be divided on' plate by letting them lap up beside ono another just a short space over plate. Fig. 2 shows end of sills and floor just lower than if you had to drive under with load on wagon. I have added to this barn a way to get back of front sill in (Fig. 1.) a is sides of barn; b is the live man sills; c four narrow sills or joists to support floor in cow manure out without throwing it out all stable; dis 2x0 inch pieces spiked on to NSl'l up, nail a 2x1 scantling on under side just over stables, then nail or screw on to it hook bucket (Fig. 0) on to hook on pulley, your rope is to be a belt rope and runs out over pulley on end of trestle (Fig") and back to another pulley fixed up in other of barn. You are now ready to run manure out, this trestle is connected to your track in the barn by scantling running to it out near upper corner of door which in order to shut the door must be fixed so that it can bo taken out like a bar. Trestle can be arranged to run m-fture up and as far out as you want it. When bucket is near end of dump the bucket will come up against an iron rod running from one leg of trestle to other then slide up till hooks on sides catch, when it will turn over and opposite side will stop on shelf, run out to catch iron ears on top corner of bucket, this will dump, now as bucket is dumped you can pull on the rope in the opposite way from what you did to run it out and bucket will return to you. (Fig. 7.) Trestle is made by laying 2x4 scantling on edge about 10 inches apart, then nailing cross pieces on every four or five feet to hold them together. Legs aro put on to outside edge of outside scantling, center scantling is to fasten track to, on the trestle, by running them up and away from the barn you can dump manure as high and as far away from barn as you like. J. M. Noble. Moore's Hill. A fat office: That of Minister to (Jreece. A cold is like a horse-car: You can easily catch it when j ou don't want to. Subscribe for the Indiana Farmer, |
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