HE452
KNITS KNACKS
SWEATER KNITS
BY LOIS GOTWALS
COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE, PURDUE UNIVERSITY, WEST LAFAYETTE, INDIANA
characteristics
Sweater knits come in a variety of weights, textures, designs and fiber content. Stretch is the characteristic of knits which helps the fabric mold itself around hips and bust curves and eliminates the need for darts and tucks.
The fabric’s ability to “recover” is as important as stretch. When a fabric returns to its original size after being stretched, it is said to have “good recovery.” If a fabric does not have good recovery, the finished garment will “grow” with each wearing and washing.
Knit structure, weight, and fiber content affect the amount of stretch and recovery. Structure and weight determine stretchability. For example, a lightweight rib knit fabric will be very “stretchy,” while a heavy double knit will stretch very little. Sweaters made of acrylic have less recovery and more stretch than those made of polyester or nylon. Wool falls between nylon and acrylic in stretchability.
care
Sweater knits require the same care as any fabric with the same fiber content. Many sweater knits are made of acrylic, polyester or cotton and can be machine washed and tumbled dry. Some sweater knits are 100 per cent wool and must be dry cleaned. If in doubt about fabric care, check the bolt end or the permanent care label that accompanies the fabric.
selection
Pattern
Choose a pattern designed for sweater knits. These patterns have less ease to allow the stretchable knit to conform to curves of the body. Look for “use only stretchable, unbonded knits” or “suitable for stretchable knits only” on the pattern envelope. Select a pattern in your regular size.
Fabric
Selecting fabric with the right amount of stretch and recovery can be tricky. To insure good results, measure 4 inches across the fabric (selvage to selvage). Stretch the fabric gently. If it stretches to more than 5 1/4 inches (and returns to 4 inches), the fabric is suitable for use with a sweater knit pattern. If the fabric does not stretch to 5 1/4 inches it is not stretchable enough for a sweater. If it fails to return to four inches, the finished sweater will “grow”.
Several pattern companies have a stretch gauge on the back of each pattern envelope. (Fig. 1) Look for it!
Trims
Many stores have coordinated stretch binding or rib trims for necklines, cuffs and bottom edge of sweaters. These add a “professional” look to your sweater. Self-fabric also may be used as trim. Trims are available in 100 per cent cotton, nylon, polyester, or acrylic.