HE 434
Ready-To-Wear Quality Signals
Betty Feather
Clothing and Textiles Specialist
Desire for the new and the different in clothing has added momentum to today’s fashion outlook. With the emphasis on fashion change, many consumers feel the quality of garments has declined. For the consumer who wishes to receive full value for the dollars spent for clothing, special consideration should be given to clothing quality signals. The decline in quality of women’s ready-to-wear apparel can be attributed to two factors: the changing concept of fashion and the nature of the apparel industry.
Changing Fashion Concept
The fashion pace has increased due to rapid mass communications, greater travel frequency, and higher standard-of-living. More people have the ability to purchase what was once considered status symbols for the elite. With youth representing one-fourth of the population and with a youth oriented society, the desire for the new and the different add to the fashion momentum.
In a mass society, with similar life styles, individuals seek safety in standardization. Individual differences are shown by the speed new fashions are adopted rather than by differences in detail. Thus to be “in fashion” is related to how quickly garments are discarded and onto the next fashion phase.
Nature of the Apparel Industry
Unlike other industrial giants, the apparel industry is composed of highly competitive small companies. Less than one percent of the apparel companies employ more than 500 employees. Fifty-five was the average number of employees for all firms in the apparel industry in 1972. Labor intensive, low paying, and low profit characterize this industry; which explains both the intense competition from within the industry and from low wage foreign manufacturers.
Increased use of technology is reflected in the clothing that is produced—the reduced number of pattern pieces in garments, less inner construction, fewer hand finishing
processes, and use of fabrics which can be easily cut and fused. In an industry which measures success by the speed orders are refilled, quality construction has lost priority. Consumers can expect these trends to continue as labor costs are increasing worldwide.
Mass garment designs are suited to production line assembly. Design is achieved today through the use of color, texture, and pattern; and how persons combine these design elements. Garments are designed to be constructed flat with vertical seams sewn last. Looser garment designs and elasticized waistbands provide the potential for fitting a greater percentage of the population. To compensate for less hand shaping, manufacturers use engineering technology to mold and shape thermoplastic fabrics. Precise topstitching enabled by automation lends a trim, neat finished look to today’s apparel.
The Clothing Consumer
In the declining quality situation and rapid fashion change, what action can the consumer take? Suggestions are to:
•	Know and identify needs.
•	Plan and evaluate purchases.
COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE • PURDUE UNIVERSITY • WEST LAFAYETTE, INDIANA