HE 223
interfacings
by Lois M. Gotwals,
Extension Clothing Specialist
Interfacing is used between two layers of fabric to give stability, shaping, strength and body. It should support the fashion fabric and maintain a soft or crisp look, but never add bulk to garments. Interfacing helps a garment maintain its shape wearing after wearing.
Patterns may or may not recommend the use of interfacing. With some designs it is essential, but with others the decision to use interfacing is left up to the individual. Generally, garments will look more structured and keep a professional look longer if interfacing is used. Consider using interfacing to:
■	Stabilize and support front openings, collarless necklines, trouser flies, plackets, cuffs, waistbands, belts, patch-pockets and yokes.
■	Support lapels, collars, peplums, pocket flaps and other detail areas.
■	Soften a fold and give a smooth finish to tailored sleeve and jacket hems.
■	Reinforce areas under buttons, buttonholes and other fasteners.
■	Stabilize fabrics which stretch or sag easily.
■	Cushion seam allowances.
■	Increase the wear life of garments and reduce the need for frequent pressing.
■	Prevent strain and lessen wear across the back of tailored coats and jackets.
Some fabrics are made especially for use as interfacings, but many outer fabrics can be used. The right choice will depend on the design effect you wish to achieve, the weight of the outer fabric, the care the finished garment requires, and the interfacing application you prefer. A home sewer may use two or more types of interfacing in a garment —a firm interfacing to support a collar and a lighter one to maintain the shape of a pocket flap.

SELECTION
When selecting interfacings consider:
■	The finished effect of the interfacing. If a sewn-in interfacing is being considered, the effect of the interfacing can be tested by sandwiching a layer
of interfacing fabric between two layers of outer fabric. Observe the fabric sandwich to see if it gives the desired effect for a front opening or faced neckline. Fold the sandwich several directions to simulate a lapel and a collar. Observe the effect as well as the way the unit folds along the simulated roll line (Figure 1).

If the interfacing fabric will be fused into the garment, fuse a swatch of it onto the wrong side of a piece of outer fabric. Cut the interfacing so that it covers approximately half of the outer fabric swatch. Handle and observe the interfaced swatch as instructed in the preceding paragraph to determine the suitability of the interfacing. Also note if the interfacing creates a texture, ridge or color change that is noticeable on the right side of the outer fabric (Figure 2).
COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE, PURDUE UNIVERSITY, WEST LAFAYETTE, INDIANA 47907